2.0 VCT Timing Belt.
#2
08-01-2010, 09:29 PM
Hi Joe,
I believe that this is the same engine as the 2000 2.0. I just purchased one in February of this year with 67,000 miles on it. From all I've read, the timing belt should be changed every 60,000 miles. Mine broke at 72,000. It's been a real bear to fix. I'm still working on it!
I have a haynes manual that details the procedure for changing the timing belt, but Ford has released a TSB detailing an updated procedure for changing the belt. My local Ford dealer wanted nearly $800 to change the timing belt, so I bought a pulley kit, new timing belt and new water pump at Advance Auto for right at $200.
The vct is an odd system to work on because the exhaust camshaft gear with the vct is spring-loaded. You can actually turn the gear without turning the camshaft itself. On the ends of the camshaft are slots that all the bulletins/procedures say you need a special tool for, but a 12 or 16" flat 3/16" steel bar worked for me.
On the 2000 2.0 engine, there are no timing marks on any of the pulleys or camshaft gears. I'm still trying to figure out all the details. Mine is running, but it doesn't seem to have the power it should, so something is not quite right yet. Let me know how it goes. Robert
I believe that this is the same engine as the 2000 2.0. I just purchased one in February of this year with 67,000 miles on it. From all I've read, the timing belt should be changed every 60,000 miles. Mine broke at 72,000. It's been a real bear to fix. I'm still working on it!
I have a haynes manual that details the procedure for changing the timing belt, but Ford has released a TSB detailing an updated procedure for changing the belt. My local Ford dealer wanted nearly $800 to change the timing belt, so I bought a pulley kit, new timing belt and new water pump at Advance Auto for right at $200.
The vct is an odd system to work on because the exhaust camshaft gear with the vct is spring-loaded. You can actually turn the gear without turning the camshaft itself. On the ends of the camshaft are slots that all the bulletins/procedures say you need a special tool for, but a 12 or 16" flat 3/16" steel bar worked for me.
On the 2000 2.0 engine, there are no timing marks on any of the pulleys or camshaft gears. I'm still trying to figure out all the details. Mine is running, but it doesn't seem to have the power it should, so something is not quite right yet. Let me know how it goes. Robert
#3
08-02-2010, 12:36 PM
Robert,
Thanks for the info,I had just about given up on getting a reply!You confirmed what I suspected,that it's a royal pain to do this job! I'll try and find the TSB and order up a Haynes manual(other than factory manuals,I've found they're the best).Another question,when your belt broke,did it give any warnings,or did it just let go?Thanks again,Bro!
Joe
Thanks for the info,I had just about given up on getting a reply!You confirmed what I suspected,that it's a royal pain to do this job! I'll try and find the TSB and order up a Haynes manual(other than factory manuals,I've found they're the best).Another question,when your belt broke,did it give any warnings,or did it just let go?Thanks again,Bro!
Joe
#4
08-08-2010, 05:55 PM
Warning Signs
Hi Joe,
My timing belt stripped a few teeth before it "really" went. It was running fine, but I started getting an error code telling me that I had an evaporative emissions leak. The car was running fine and I'd just had it inspected (in fact, the Check Engine light came on on the way home from getting the car inspected!), any way, it was running fine, so I just ignored the code. I checked it again a couple of months later and the code was now telling me that I had a "major leak" in my evaporative emissions. Soon after that, I was driving down the interstate and the car just didn't seem to have the power it had before. Even when it's running good, it doesn't have a lot of power anyway. I checked the codes again and this time I got a new code telling me that the variable camshaft timing was retarded.
Since there are no timing marks on the crankshaft pulley, I tried guessing where TDC was, but it was no good. I had to order the special crankshaft timing pin. My Haynes manual said I could use a "homemade" pin, but it didn't give me any specifications as to how long that pin needed to be. If you want to make your own, the shaft needs to be 2 1/2 inches long (not including the head of the bolt). You can unscrew the short little bolt thats in the hole and take it to your hardware store to find out what size the threads are.
If you'd like to order the tool, I found the best deal on Amazon.com from ray25698. The pin less than $11 and the shipping was fair. I've been amazed at how many companies are trying to rip you off with shipping when everyone knows that USPS now has the "Flat rate" shipping of around $5.00 for anything under 70 lbs. Some companies on the web were trying to charge me $15 or more! - but that's enough ranting about that...
Just a note about timing hole blanking plug. It takes a 10mm socket and it's kind of a pain to get to. I could get a socket on it from underneath, without jacking up the car, but once I got it loose, I couldn't get my fingers up in there to unscrew it. I was able to get to it best by squeezing my arm behind and under the exhaust and unplugging whatever that thing is next to. It's a little tight.
Good luck,
Robert
My timing belt stripped a few teeth before it "really" went. It was running fine, but I started getting an error code telling me that I had an evaporative emissions leak. The car was running fine and I'd just had it inspected (in fact, the Check Engine light came on on the way home from getting the car inspected!), any way, it was running fine, so I just ignored the code. I checked it again a couple of months later and the code was now telling me that I had a "major leak" in my evaporative emissions. Soon after that, I was driving down the interstate and the car just didn't seem to have the power it had before. Even when it's running good, it doesn't have a lot of power anyway. I checked the codes again and this time I got a new code telling me that the variable camshaft timing was retarded.
Since there are no timing marks on the crankshaft pulley, I tried guessing where TDC was, but it was no good. I had to order the special crankshaft timing pin. My Haynes manual said I could use a "homemade" pin, but it didn't give me any specifications as to how long that pin needed to be. If you want to make your own, the shaft needs to be 2 1/2 inches long (not including the head of the bolt). You can unscrew the short little bolt thats in the hole and take it to your hardware store to find out what size the threads are.
If you'd like to order the tool, I found the best deal on Amazon.com from ray25698. The pin less than $11 and the shipping was fair. I've been amazed at how many companies are trying to rip you off with shipping when everyone knows that USPS now has the "Flat rate" shipping of around $5.00 for anything under 70 lbs. Some companies on the web were trying to charge me $15 or more! - but that's enough ranting about that...
Just a note about timing hole blanking plug. It takes a 10mm socket and it's kind of a pain to get to. I could get a socket on it from underneath, without jacking up the car, but once I got it loose, I couldn't get my fingers up in there to unscrew it. I was able to get to it best by squeezing my arm behind and under the exhaust and unplugging whatever that thing is next to. It's a little tight.
Good luck,
Robert
#5
08-08-2010, 05:57 PM
Oh, I forgot to mention - after installing the new timing belt, all the error codes went away including the emissions code. Coincidence? Time will tell.
Robert
Robert
#6
08-10-2010, 01:47 PM
Thanks!!
Robert,
Thanks so much for the info.As of this time,the little guy is running as well as ever.I got the car in '08 from my mom when she gave up driving(at age 81!!)It had just over 47,000 "old lady" miles on it. I'll inspect the belt this weekend to see where we're at.As a side note,if you are familiar with USAC racing,the Ford Focus Midget division uses this engine with few modifications as it's powerplant!
Thanks again Bro,
Joe
Thanks so much for the info.As of this time,the little guy is running as well as ever.I got the car in '08 from my mom when she gave up driving(at age 81!!)It had just over 47,000 "old lady" miles on it. I'll inspect the belt this weekend to see where we're at.As a side note,if you are familiar with USAC racing,the Ford Focus Midget division uses this engine with few modifications as it's powerplant!
Thanks again Bro,
Joe
#7
08-10-2010, 08:39 PM
The timing belt in my '98 2.0L Contour snapped yesterday at 73,000 miles. I had the belt replaced along with the water pump as preventative maintenance. The parts were about $100.00 and the mechanic charged $250.00. He took pity on me and didn't charge much. I gave him an extra $30 for his kindness. It runs quiet and smooth now. I would get it replaced if you have the dough and/or the time. The car stranded me - you don't want that to happen to you.
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