Help! I am trying to fix a friends 91 E150 with a straight 6.
cranks/noStart. No spark to plug. I have looked all over Inet for info.
I have checked the PIP sensor output and i get an on/off signal, so that should be good. rotor rotates.
I have power to the control modual.
I have a good ground to modual.
I get a constant on signal on the coil out put lead. when i connect me lled test light to the coil signal side, I get a constant on when the key is in the run position. I get No signal when i turn to the start position. It cranks but no signal to the coil.

Other info; i have looked for a poer distribution box on the van,, not on left fender. not on right fender. not under master cylinder. only fuse box i see is under steering wheel and this seems to be for interior power.

is this a relay problem?
is this a ignition switch problem?
anything helps,
for I am,
Sparkless

 

The ign switch also is supposed to provide current to the module when starting.
Recheck all plugs and connectors for good connections.

 

Ok I'll check them. all of the ones at the distributor seem good. so do the one on the coil. I will check the battery and stuff around that.

Could there be a fuse out some where? just a thought.

 

when you turn the key on the juice is suppose to go to the module and the module is suppose to put juice into the distributor to fire the plugs ! maybe it,s the ignition switch, module or coil ! is juice coming out of the coil ?

 

I have replaced the coil but still no spark.

The ign.modual is mounted under the distributor head.
there are 6 connections.
top (1) is the pip sensor. i get a on /off signal from this.
#2 is the spout to the computer. i should check this for a signal too.
#3 is power in the start position. i get power to this. i will check again.
#4 is power in the run position. i get power to this
#5 is the signal to coil wire, i do not get a on/off signal. steady on?
#6 is the ground, and this is good.

I will check the power in the start position, does this come from the starter relay?
i have a 4 post one.
or from the ignition switch. how can i tell which is bad?

If i get no on/off from #5 the coil signal wire, then the modual is fried?
o'****ty said that it was a good modual..?

I found the eec test box , the single input?
and the 6 connector with the out put?

how do i get a code from this there is no check engine light in the dash.

any info is helpful,
and Thanks for holding my hand.
long day, and my brain is fried, and
Sparkless

 

Sounds like you found the problem. However, lets make sure you tested that circuit correctly.

Connect your test light with the alligator clip connected to battery positive, probe this terminal, and crank the engine with the key. If there is no On/Off signal, meaning your test light doesn't flash while the engine is cranking, remove and renew the PIP module.

Failure to follow these test procedures to the letter will result in test errors.

If you remove the distributor to change the PIP make sure you mark the dist. housing to engine at its base, and which way the rotor is pointing before removal. This will help when you install the dist. to get the timing right.

Feel free to ask anymore questions before and/or after testing. And do post updates.

Cheers.

 

how it works is as soon as you turn the key on the juice goes into the module and it provides juice to the coil and goes into the distributor to fire the plugs ! it might be a bad coil, coil wire or the distributor cap burnt up !

 

I just joined this forum and i'm trying to fix a 1994 e150 with similar symtoms so it lead me to this thread. The van will only start cold with starting fluid. Rough idle, very bad stumble and no power on acceleration.

Any help appreciated.

 

If you have not done so already perform a tune-up, and set the timing.

Peform visual inspection of all connections, and wires for damage etc...

Check for a strong blue/white spark at a well grounded spark plug.

Check all filters, and replace if neglected. Esp. fuel and air filters.

Hook up a vacuum gauge, and read the needle while the vehicle is running. This is often overlooked, yet one of the best diagnosis tools available.

Perform compression test.

Perform cylinder balance test.

Check for any vacuum leaks. Use propane gas to test for leaks.

Check ECT for proper values. It may be telling the PCM the engine is at operating temp. when it's actually cold.

Service EGR valve, and check that there is no vacuum at valve at idle.

Check TPS for smooth voltage changes.

Check fuel pressure regulator that there is no fuel at vacuum hose.

Clean MAF sensor.

Clean IAC motor, and throttle body.

Here is a link to another thread with similar complaint.

https://www.fordforum.com/forum/ford...-stalls-27959/

Feel free to ask any questions. I really enjoy talking shop, and helping people on this forum.
Cheers.

 

Thanks for the list of reccomendations, i found myself answering yes, yes ,yes to most of them. I rented a scan tool to see if codes would re-focus the effort and as it turned out got new information by no information. I launched the various tests, koeo, koer etc, tried to get whatever i could. I used the scanner on a f250, same engine just to confirm i was using the tool correctly. Tool worked as intended. I tried again to get scans from the van. While attempting the koer test, engine stopped and nothing seemed to work. No fuel pump sound. No spark, etc.. My nephew came over, he was an auto tech in the past. He had the cool litle bulbs that indicate no pulse to the fuel injectors. Neat.

Having gotten him caught up with all the tests and trial and error results, we decided to borrow the cumputer out of the f250 in the van. Be aware, by now, the van wouldn't run at all, crank but nothing else. We pluged the f250 cumputer into the van harness, boom, van would start, run, rev up bla bla. Wow. Haven't driven yet. Still up on jack stands from my loosen the y pipe to check for plugged cat project. Now looking for the correct new cumputer, but new confidence having at least heard it run like it used to.

Seems odd none of the threads i read that seemed to decribe my symtoms perfectly impacted the issue, and locating and replacing the engine cumputer never surfaced. I'll post again with results of replacement search and results. Wow, they want a $100 core and special order only. Here we go.

Not sure if this can help the guy with the 1991 6cyl. But consider a total failed ecm like i think i found. It's located in the firewall just left of the brake booster.

Thanks again.