If all goes well and you get the problem corrected, this would be a good time to replace the filter and fluid. Just make sure to remove the old seal that the filter neck extends into and install the new one. If the trans fluid has never been changed before, you can also drain the converter since there is a drain plug on it , you may need to rotate the flywheel to bring the plug down to the bottom where there is an access hole. The system usually will take approx 14 qts trans fluid. The filter kit comes with a filter, pan gasket and seal. Depends on how you feel and available time.

 

Thanks again

 

Thanks for that info, great advice

 

The scribe marks do not actually line up when in neutral I had to drop back I believe to drive in order for the marks to align. Based on the difficulty I had taking it out of park last time while on a sloped driveway I am inclined to think that there are bent parts internally. Also a recommended simple test of the range selector is to rotate it with bolts in, until the backup lights come on. They did not. As I mentioned previously I have replaced the range selector with a new one. Inspection of the wiring harness looks pretty good. I tested the harness for power to it which tested positive.

 

Hi again hanky, it has been awhile but I have finaly dropped the trans pan. I can see no bent or damaged parts I can see the parking rod and movement but not the actual parking pawn (haven't dropped the filter yet) so I don't know if there is damage at the end of the rod. My question is you mentioned the indexing pin moving out of a slot, where is the indexing pin located and how do I access it.

I did get the van to start just once by rotating the neutral switch, I had removed the two fastening bolts trying to find a position that would turn on backup lights I rotated the neutral safety a full 360 degrees and then fastened it back in its proper position after not getting backup lights. At that point the van started only once.

 

I may be a little late on this and I am not sure how much they will help but I attached a few diagrams of that transmission in case you needed/wanted some reference material.

 

Hi Kyle,
I realize this might not be possible to do , but a part description of the no's would really be extremely helpful for "stucky" since he may not be sure what he is looking at, what do you think?

 

You wont see the pawl, its on the backside of the main case/tail shaft area.

During the internal inspection you never mentioned the detent spring/roller? Straight??

It absolutely must be straight otherwise it will hold the internal selector cam 'off range' in 'all' ranges (will have a slight arch when bolted down). I've seen these get bent during a range sensor replacement/re-tightening of the cable lever nut if not supported. If you've rotated the sensor full circle, could be that its damaged now. Being that there's now no back up lights, crank in any position,, might check it.. Prior, since you seemed to be able to remove the bolts and rotate the sensor well beyond its bolt range to crank seems to support a bent detent..

With the scribes lined up, it should only take a small L/R adjustment to get it set. With the sensor and bolts in place, if rocking the sensor back'n forth within its slots doesn't produce a crank point,, one of few things or now a combination of are going on. Either the detent spring is bent, or, there's no power at the sensor connector. Could be that its an issue from the sensor out to the starter solenoid, but being your not seeing any backup lights leads me to believe there's no power at the sensor, or, the sensor has been damaged. If you can bridge the sensor connector and it cranks, that would put you back at the range is being held in the wrong positions, or a bad sensor..

Here's the illustration showing detent/cam..

If you need a connector view for the sensor to test for power distribution let me know..

 

I can get the part number on any of the callouts that are on those diagrams but to post all of the part numbers available would be a bit insurmountable. Stucky, if you can send me, or post, your VIN and give me the callouts your looking for I would be happy to give you the part numbers.

 

Thanks Kyle,
Hopefully between you and Hayapower, stucky1945 should find the problem and solve it.