This is the first time that both have failed at the same time. I have checked the master switch. I have checked the single switches. I have checked polarity. I have checked grounds. I tried running new grounds and hot wires directly to the motors. Every time, when I have pulled the motors, they would run when hooked directly to the battery or even hooked directly to the switches. They run when first put in the doors, but after a few days or weeks they quit. Then I can pull them and test them and put them back in the door and they work again for a while. I have only changed the passenger door motor once, but have done the driver's door three times.
It is not an easy job. I won't do it again unless I can find the reason for the failure.

 

Don't know if you know how to do voltage drop testing, but there are a few instructional videos on u tube that explain it pretty well, might want to check that out.

For what it is worth, this is what I would do at this point if it were mine.
I would run 2 wires out of each door that were connected directly to both motor plugs.
When either motor would quit operating I would connect the 2 wires to a direct supply and ground. Now they will either work or won't don't forget to reverse the polarity to cover all the bases. If they work , it will confirm a wiring or switch problem. If they don't work it will confirm a motor problem. Depending on which condition I received would determine my next move. A broken wire with one or two strands can drive one nuts, been there! If it is a wiring problem at least you will know and if it is a motor problem you will know that too. I believe the weather is pretty nice this time of the year so maybe you will consider giving it another shot.

 

That is the crazy part. I have run wires from the battery directly to a motor and it didn't run. Then I pulled it from the door and hooked it directly to the battery and it ran. Makes no sense at all.

 

Did you run BOTH a hot lead AND a ground DIRECTLY to the motor and try reversing the connections while it was still mounted in the door ?

 

Sure did. I also have hooked a meter to the switch to make sure it was reversing polarity when using it.

 

Hi Rusty, here is how I see it.
If you ran a direct hot lead and ground wire to the connection right on the motors themselves you absolutely eliminated all the wiring and switch possibilities leaving only the motors left to cause the problem. Following that train of thought ,I would open those motors and look inside for burned spots on the armature or possible contact problems inside the motors.
Now if the linkages to raise and lower the glass are free to move and don't jam anywhere consider taking one of the defective motors to an electric motor rebuilder. If you have been using the same supplier for the faulty motors, it's time to try either a different supplier or have one of them rebuilt and get rid of the problem. Considering the age and availability of those motors you may not have much choice.

 

I think Dorman is the only one who still makes them. The motors are sealed units, I would have to cut them open.The van is too old to spend a lot on again.

 

Hanky, want to buy a van? 85' Econoline V8 auto. captain's chairs, a little rough but only has 120,000 miles. Or it would make a good planter or maybe a reef.

 

Don't kid yourself, there are quite a few folks looking for older vans.
Have you considered putting it on this site under the For Sale Classifieds?
This site is one of the places where they look.

 

I would rather fix it. But just don't know where to turn anymore. Heck, I spent $300 on the carb last spring.