Puzzle
#33
10-28-2014, 01:49 PM
Rusty,
Can I ask where are you getting these motors?
What are you doing with the old ones?
If you still have them, open one up and see what it looks like inside. If there are burned parts it could indicate a problem in the tracks and linkages. Do you have any way to measure the current draw of the motor?
You're not making multiple trips to all the drive up windows and killing those poor motors are you? Just kidding !
Can I ask where are you getting these motors?
What are you doing with the old ones?
If you still have them, open one up and see what it looks like inside. If there are burned parts it could indicate a problem in the tracks and linkages. Do you have any way to measure the current draw of the motor?
You're not making multiple trips to all the drive up windows and killing those poor motors are you? Just kidding !
#34
10-28-2014, 04:41 PM
I bought another vehicle a couple weeks ago. I may not mess with the van window until spring. I will only need it once or twice a week. To be honest, I am tired of messing with it.
#40
01-22-2015, 10:34 AM
When the window functions fail, is it 'always' both right and left failing together?
If so, it would seem to point away from the regulator motor/s, more so since you've changed a few out now. (although you mentioned a new unit groaning in one direction) If both fail together, it should eliminate a door-motor harness issue from the master on out/down to the regulators since both shouldn't fail at once. Sounds like power distribution to the master goes away, or ground. Possibly the switch itself.
If power is at the master switch, what voltage do you see when the window switch is applied? Does it go open?
When they fail, have you checked the master switch right away to see if power/ground remains at the switch? I believe you said you 'added' both 12v and a ground at the master switch connector and the windows still didn't operate (?) Master switch drop out, or door jamb "wire breaks" from flex are more the norm when both window functions fail. If you have motor doubt (usually single), piggy back the motor connector and route wire up to the panel as a test point. If the window intermittent fails, and you add direct power/ground and still nothing, there's your problem.
If you never loose power and ground at the master, its either the switch (although you mention you checked for polarity reverse) or possibly harness/connector on down to the motor. although, 'both' wouldn't normally be an issue..
If so, it would seem to point away from the regulator motor/s, more so since you've changed a few out now. (although you mentioned a new unit groaning in one direction) If both fail together, it should eliminate a door-motor harness issue from the master on out/down to the regulators since both shouldn't fail at once. Sounds like power distribution to the master goes away, or ground. Possibly the switch itself.
If power is at the master switch, what voltage do you see when the window switch is applied? Does it go open?
When they fail, have you checked the master switch right away to see if power/ground remains at the switch? I believe you said you 'added' both 12v and a ground at the master switch connector and the windows still didn't operate (?) Master switch drop out, or door jamb "wire breaks" from flex are more the norm when both window functions fail. If you have motor doubt (usually single), piggy back the motor connector and route wire up to the panel as a test point. If the window intermittent fails, and you add direct power/ground and still nothing, there's your problem.
If you never loose power and ground at the master, its either the switch (although you mention you checked for polarity reverse) or possibly harness/connector on down to the motor. although, 'both' wouldn't normally be an issue..