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2003 Escape Transmission Problem?

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Old 01-27-2018, 04:49 AM
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Default 2003 Escape Transmission Problem?

Hi all,

I'm having some sort of (assumed) transmission issue with my Escape (edit: 2003 v6 Limited). On the freeway on-ramp it seemed to "slip" out of gear and the engine revved really high rather than applying power. I let the RPMs drop and everything seemed okay.

Just a mile or so down the road it happened again (I think it was when it tried to shift into overdrive). Letting the RPMs drop again got power back. I quickly disabled the O/D when the transmission didn't seem to engage upon accelerating a second time. I quickly pressed the OD button again (to turn it back on), and that's when the OD light started blinking. I immediately headed for an off-ramp and seemed to be losing power across the lower gears now.

In the end, I was able to nurse it off the freeway and onto a street, but I lost all transmission. I coasted into place.

The gear shifter operates properly. I've read that sometimes the linkage comes apart, but it doesn't feel like that (though I'm not near the car now and can't check... it happened Friday night and no mechanics are to be found, so I left it where it was rather than towing it for now). Everything seems fine with the truck, except that it won't engage into gear. It seems to be in Neutral at all times (though I don't know this for sure). I put it into Neutral to push it into a better parking position, but upon reflection I wonder if putting the shifter in any position would have been neutral.

Some research seems to indicate the truck may be in some sort of "safe" mode, which may explain why moving the shifter doesn't do anything...as in it doesn't even appear to attempt to shift gears. I've also read that the clutch cylinder(s) tend to crack?

Any thoughts or suggestions? And... if I need a new or rebuilt transmission, any ideas on what that should cost? I don't have a mechanic that I trust in this area.

Thanks for your time and input!
 
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Old 01-27-2018, 10:08 AM
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Diagnosing over the internet is not always the best thing to do.
From what you describe, it does sound like the torque converter went into retirement.
The usual things should be checked like fluid level etc.
In either case , I would suspect the trans will need to be removed and examined.
If only the torque converter let go, depending on the miles on the vehicle, that alone can be replaced. Higher mileage would suggest a trans overhaul/replacement.
 
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Old 01-27-2018, 10:51 PM
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Thanks for taking the time to respond.

Still waiting for a Transmission shop to open on Monday to get it towed there. I'll keep your comments in mind when talking to them!
 
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Old 01-28-2018, 10:09 PM
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When you get slip going around corners or climbing/descending or accelerating is a sign of fluid loss. IE radiator connection popped off. If you have oil on the stick check for metal by shining a light on it which means overhaul, not sure if it has a filter bypass, if not, a cavitation noise would be heard from a chocked filter and pressure starvation. Filter cannot be changed without removal of the gearbox, just as well as it would only delay the inevitable. There was a call back on this gearbox years ago on the valve body. It would raise the pressure and blow the pistons.
 
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Old 01-29-2018, 01:41 PM
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Shop says that the Torque Converter blew. Because I kept driving (was on Freeway) it threw the metal throughout the trans. Fluid is murky and smells burnt.

He's saying it needs a rebuild and has quoted me $2900. I called another shop and they said it was a "decent price quote". He offers a 3year/36,000mile guarantee on all work.
 
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Old 01-29-2018, 04:59 PM
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At this point you don't have too many options. The price isn't bad, just make sure to confirm you are getting a new torque converter and not a used one. Let us know how you make out , thanks.
 
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Old 01-31-2018, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by hanky
At this point you don't have too many options. The price isn't bad, just make sure to confirm you are getting a new torque converter and not a used one. Let us know how you make out , thanks.
Mechanic said the torque converter would be new. He said they'd never put a used one in.

Interestingly, he said the trans that's in their isn't new. I bought this truck used in 2008. It's a 2003. So if he's correct, that means the trans was rebuilt/replaced within the first 5 years.

Also, he said 2 of the mounting bolts were sheared off. He said this happens if people do a bad job removing the trans. The charge to drill in to create new mounting points: $50 in parts, and $150 in labor.

My only concern is that they broke the bolts, but I have to believe the guy (who does seem honest).

Lastly, the oil gasket was very worn and he suggested it be replaced for $30 for the part, no labor. Seems silly not to replace it when the whole truck is opened up.
 
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Old 01-31-2018, 04:26 PM
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It is not my intent to poo poo your service person, however, you just can't break bolts when removing them unless they were severely rusted /frozen. The big question is why they weren't fixed at the time instead of letting it go out with poor workmanship.

Why not get another opinion/estimate just to reassure your concerns.
 
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Old 01-31-2018, 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by hanky
It is not my intent to poo poo your service person, however, you just can't break bolts when removing them unless they were severely rusted /frozen. The big question is why they weren't fixed at the time instead of letting it go out with poor workmanship.

Why not get another opinion/estimate just to reassure your concerns.
I got another estimate before commissioning the work. It was sight unseen but they said the quote my guy gave was very fair and they said the guy was reputable.

In any case, the discovery of the exhaust pipe bolts wasn't made until the transmission was removed (I suppose). He said that he could leave it as is, but there would likely be an exhaust leak (and I have at times noticed an exhaust like smell from time to time but no mechanic ever spotted anything amiss). I mean, either the issue was there, or he created the issue and flat out lied about "discovering" it. Either way, I have no proof.

He said that he's seen this fairly often when techs don't take care when removing the part. He said the typical procedure is to spray it heavily with WD-40 and let it sit, preferably overnight. I did buy the truck used from a dealership, so maybe they just left it. Or maybe it's not a big deal to have 2 of the bolts broken, and I didn't really need to spend the money to get them fixed.

In any case, I do appreciate your engagement and thoughts.
 
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