Hello everyone, this is my first post here and I am a new Ford owner. I bought a used 2004 Escape XLT 4WD V6 about 3 months ago and had to make a few relatively minor repairs (replace both rear shocks, all the spark plugs and one ignition coil all of which I did myself). It was running great until about 5 weeks ago when I started having very random trouble with it not wanting to start under specific conditions. It only occurs if it is very damp (been raining for a while) or is cold (below 32ish degrees) and also it only occurs when I have driven the vehicle to a place then it sits for an hour or 2 then I go to leave and the starting issue happens.

It has a strong cranking sound, but just won't start unless I push the gas pedal all the way to floor then it will start and idle fine. I did some web searches and thought it could be the IAC valve, but when I looked at mine, the inside was very clean and the only wearing was on the outside where it was rusty. I'm not 100% sure it is the IAC, any suggestions or further diagnostics I could do myself at a reasonable price? Thanks.

 

From what you describe it does sound like it may be pouring fuel into the cyls which could be caused by a defective throttle position sensor. Placing the throttle all the way to the floor puts the fuel system in clear flood mode. Is the check engine lite coming on?

 

My apologies, I forgot to mention about the check engine light. It is not on and does not come on when the issue occurs. Just to make sure right after the issue occurs, I run a check for any codes and it shows up all clear no issues.

 

This is what I would try.
Get a spray bottle with just plain water and spray a small section at a time and each time try to start the engine. Each time it starts eliminates that part of the engine. If no area causes the no start condition , mist the wiring areas , small areas like plugs to components and see if you can create the problem. Sometimes we get lucky and find it right away other times it takes patience and perseverance .
Another thing you can try is to unplug all components and plug them back in . Sometimes a poor connection opens when the contacts contract due to lower temps.

 

Check to see when your fuel filter was replaced last. If it is a new one from what your saying sounds like a fuel pump issue, due to the fact when you drive it and let it sit for a few hours to let it HOT SOAK, may be your fuel pump failing. i know a aftermarket scan tool that only scans for HARD CODES wont pull it up but a FORD SCANNER OR HIGH END SCANNER will show PENDING CODES that def. may help you out.

 

Hanky, I will give a try to what you said as soon as I get a little bit of spare time, hopefully this afternoon or tomorrow.

FordLifeSaver, I personally replaced the fuel filter with a Ford (motorcraft) replacement about a month and a half ago. I unfortunately do not have access to nor the money to buy a Ford or high end scanner. Is there any other way to diagnose if the fuel pump is going bad. I have the workshop manual for the 2004 Escape, but it didn't have anything on diagnosing the fuel pump itself.

Also, more information if it helps any: I drove to class (about a 15 minute drive) this morning and turned off the engine at 8:40AM. When I left class and got in my Escape at 10:30AM I turned the key and it turned over for what I call 4-5 "cycles" if you know the sound I am talking about then started albeit roughly. It has not rained yet (although it is now) and it was about 36-37 degrees outside.

 

Sorry for sounding pushy, but Autozone is having a 20% off sale store wide that ends today. If it is indeed the fuel pump this discount would be awesome because ti is $199.99 for a new one. Is there any way I could quickly diagnose the issue to the fuel pump without having to buy on the expensive $350-500 scanners?

Note: I have not tried Hanky's suggestion, but I will be trying it this afternoon.

 

So,, during the times it doesn't start do you hear the fuel pump 'run' cycling the key Off/On?

Fuel pump failures on higher mileage trucks is pretty common, but many a good pump has been replaced without check for pump run/pressure/volume prior to a replacement. If the pump doesn't run (at those low temps or after a soak) and can be failure duplicated, you might ad a test lead/12v to the inertia switch and check for pump run. That way anything before the pump is generally removed from the diagnosis.

Installing a test gauge (if you have one) can monitor and verify all of the above as well, and can usually capture a failing pump before replacing.

You never mentioned any excessive fuel smoke or ? after it finally starts.. None?

 

I do hear the fuel pump 'run'. I checked that as soon as the fuel pump was mentioned. Also, there is no smoke or anything like that after it starts. Only thing is a strong fuel smell for about 2-3 minutes then it goes away.

I also tried Hanky's suggestions and found nothing out of the ordinary and it started regardless of being sprayed. I let it sit for about 45 minutes before I tried that also. The issue seems to be very intermittent. The only time it does it consistently is with this series of events:

1. I leave and make the 10-15 minute drive to campus.
2. I park and go to class for about an hour and 10 minutes almost exactly every Tuesday and Thursday.
3. I go back to my vehicle and it exhibits the mentioned issues.

If it sits any less than 45-60 minutes the issue occurs, but not as bad (starts quicker and doesn't take multiple tries). any longer and it almost doesn't occur at all (doesn't occur after sitting for 3-4 hours). It also does not occur immediately after parking. I doubt this has anything to do with it, but if it matters I live about 1004ft ASL in my area which is about 200-300 ft higher than the surrounding counties.

 

When you stop to get fuel, do you fill it to the top or do you stop when the nozzle shuts off ?