Hello. My mother has a 2010 Escape with a little over 30000KMs on it. A little over a week ago, she went out to start it, and it was a no go. The doors wouldn't even unlock. It was really cold at the time, so I didn't figure it was a big deal. I grabbed my charger, and my load tester, and headed to her place. Threw the charger on and left it for an hour. Not even enough juice to move the needle on the load tester. Being the battery that came in it new, I just went to Canadian tire, and grabbed a new Eliminator, threw it in the old ones place, hit the key and all was fine. Checked to make sure it was charging, closed the hood, and went in to get warmed up. 2 days later, mom calls, and it is dead again. It hadn't moved since I put the new battery in, so I grabbed some stuff, and headed out. Put the load tester on, and it was not as bad as the old bat, but it was pretty weak. Charged it for an hour, did a load test, and it was good. Started, and ran the truck, unhooked the ground, and went home. Next day battery was good. Left the ground off and waited a few more days, it was still good. Did an amp test on the ground, and she was pulling 6.2 amps. Unbolted the 125 amp fuse, and she dropped to nothing. So knowing it was in the cab, I began the process of elimination, and found the problem was in the rear wiper. So how do I determine if the problem is in the motor, or the switch, and how is this live with the key off.

 

There is a battery saver system that cuts off most battery drains when everything is working properly. When a particular module, in this case Body Control Module, refuses to go to sleep due to an internal problem keeping the system awake and consuming battery power when it should not be doing so, the result is a drained battery.
You did the investigative work now you just need to verify your result with a scan tool capable of confirming your diagnosis.
Some components can be replaced without a reset, but one may be required if the BCM is at fault.

 

With the rear wiper fuse pulled, doors closed for at least half an hour, the drain is only 65MA. I left the fuse out, reconnected the battery ground, and left it over night. Tried it about an hour ago, the battery is 100%. Replaced the wiper fuse, did another amp test, and she went up over 6 amps again.

 

There is the possibility of a defective wiper motor assy.
Make sure there is no problem with the wiring at the flex point where the feed goes into the motor.

 

Have not been near mom's escape for a while, although she said it starts every time with the rear wiper fuse pulled. New development though. She said that the rear hatch will not open. Not sure if the rear hatch actuator is tied into the rear wiper fuse, but it makes me think the problem might be in the wiring in the hatch opening. The rear hatch was damaged last spring, and a bodyshop replaced it with a used one. Everything has worked up until this point. Perhaps I need to check for a hatchet wiring job. Could explain how the circuit was getting power without the key, as the hatch lock is always live.

 

Maybe they used a hatch with a bad seal. https://www.fordforum.com/forum/ford...-repair-32199/
Check Macaluko2000 post and video about gaining entry and the seal issue.