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03 Ford Expedition "check charging system light" plus other stuff

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  #1  
Old 01-07-2016, 04:29 AM
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Default 03 Ford Expedition "check charging system light" plus other stuff

Hello Everyone,
I purchased a 03 Ford Expedition back in June 15. Ever since the first day the check charging system thing comes on and the battery light is on. The service engine light will come on then go away and repeat. I brought it in to a place that I have no trust in they said it is my spark plugs and coil packs which will cost a pretty penny. Anyways I haven't driven it in about 3wks. Well last night I'm driving to my sons hockey practice and its bogging out while driving. Ill be on the gas going 60 & it will jerk every once in awhile. I also had it stall on me turning into a parking lot. Anyone know what might be wrong with it?

Thanks,
Pam
 
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Old 01-07-2016, 11:23 AM
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Welcome aboard Pam..

I'd start with your first concern. Charging system.

A lot of parts houses will check the rate of charge for you at no cost. Very important to know the charging system state. If the system isn't charging, all sorts of issues will surface..
 
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Old 01-07-2016, 12:43 PM
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Agreed 100% Hayapower, get that system checked out and let us know what they find. If the vehicle is sluggish and now stalling it could be a bad alternator. However, I would think that if it were an alternator that it would have died before now since the vehicle was purchased so long ago.
 
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Old 01-07-2016, 01:37 PM
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Thanks for gwtting back to me. I was going to take it in today but I was driving for about five minutes and the rpms wouldn't go over 3000. I would let off the gas and it would jerk like its going to stall. I turned around so I wouldn't stall and get stranded in MN weather! I dunno what to do with it now!!
 
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Old 01-07-2016, 01:58 PM
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Sounds like you may be at the point of needing to have it towed somewhere. You definitely do not want to get stranded by the vehicle.
 
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Old 01-08-2016, 12:02 AM
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Just worked on a friends 02 Explorer for basically the same electrical issues. He took it to a garage and they ran their battery tests. Multiple tests were performed and each time a different result. Bad battery or bad alternator. Brought it to me this past week-end to look at. I told him to always start with the easy stuff, so I (had him get his fingers dirty too) cleaned the battery cable clamps and battery posts with green scotch bright. Applied a light coating of di-electrical grease. Topped the electrolyte off in the battery with some distilled water as the cells were low. Took the serpentine belt off and cleaned the ribbed side with hot water, dish soap and a bristled brush. Cleaned the pulleys with BRAKE CLEAN. Reassembled everything and all has been fine since. Suspected his issue was a combination of poor terminal contact and a slipping belt under alternator load.
 

Last edited by Use Common Sense; 01-08-2016 at 12:05 AM.
  #7  
Old 01-08-2016, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by blackhawksfan1204
Thanks for gwtting back to me. I was going to take it in today but I was driving for about five minutes and the rpms wouldn't go over 3000. I would let off the gas and it would jerk like its going to stall. I turned around so I wouldn't stall and get stranded in MN weather! I dunno what to do with it now!!
Where is it now? If it isn't charging the battery, or is intermittently charging, stalling out can happen over again. The loads or 'devices' needed when driving,, meaning lights, defroster, heater fan, wipers and such will make for a higher demand on the electrical system in the winter conditions that the engines electronics also share and need as well. In 'better weather' conditions and longer daylight hours, it may not be as big of an issue, plus the more times the battery is drawn down will shorten it's service life and may affect run times. The higher the electrical demand,, the 'less time' it's going to run due to the draw put on the battery/system. Removing as many loads/draw on the system helps if the systems charge rate is below spec. Just went through a similar scenario with my 05 F250.. Intermittent, sometimes steady on light. Turned out to be a failed connection within the voltage regulator. Didn't need a complete alternator, just a replacement internal regulator.

You can easily check yourself to see if it's charging. Harbor Freight, Autozone and other parts vendors, hardware stores etc sell inexpensive voltage meters (called a DVOM) for about 5-10.00. A simple check across the battery posts with it running will usually give you a good idea and a direction. You never meationed miles on the truck, but given the age and suspected miles, it's probably due for alternator work, or as Use Commom Sense mentioned, could be something very simple. If you have someone there that is handy, basic tools, I'm sure we can help get it straightened out..
 

Last edited by Hayapower; 01-08-2016 at 09:44 PM.
  #8  
Old 01-11-2016, 07:52 AM
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I have to bring it in today I'm hoping it doesn't die on me on the way there. My nephew thought it could be the spark plugs or coil packs. I'm hoping thats just the issue and it could be fixed easily! When I had it hooked up before to see why the check charging system indicator on they said there was a misfire on plug six? They also said if I replace the spark plugs I would need to replace the coils too. My nephew said no you don't that's where most places try to get you. Could it be the spark plugs?? I'm hoping so!! Pam
 
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Old 01-11-2016, 09:48 AM
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I'd make sure the battery has been completely charge, and all unnecessary accessories/loads are turned off. If the shop your taking it to is any real distance away?, probably better to have it dropped off. If the battery is not fully charged, an attempt to drive the truck is shorted accordingly. If the battery is drained when driving, ignition and fuel management will fail without enough voltage.

That said, a plug or plugs, and coil packs WILL cause a misfire , poor performance, rough idle, misfire codes etc., but generally won't cause the truck to completely die out. Nor will a coil or plug/s cause the battery or charge indicator light to come on. Two separate systems,, but with one commonality,, ignition and fuel management need spec voltage supply to operate correctly. Coil or plug problems,, bare no relations to the charging system.

When conditions seem to follow your pattern of,, starts runs good,, then after some extended driving
It starts to run bad to the point of stalling out with a charge/ battery light ON, chances are it's not charging the battery. If the battery doesn't charge, it WILL stall out..

Could be you have a combination of issues, coil/s and or plugs, but again if it starts up cold and runs fine,, I wouldn't be unusually suspect of the coils and plugs. They do and can fail as they heat up, or from cold and moisture, but I'd certainly address the battery light concern before any ignition related work...
 

Last edited by Hayapower; 01-11-2016 at 10:31 AM.
  #10  
Old 01-12-2016, 08:38 AM
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Agreed^... I am looking forward to finding out the culprit of this problem.
 
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