Over the last week, my truck started missing at the first start-up then run smooth shortly afterward if the truck had sit overnight or more. Went to lunch yesterday in it then a few hours later hopped in to go home and the truck wouldn't start. I then tried to jump it off without luck. I removed the battery, had it tested (marginal) and didn't replace it.
Then I noticed the coolant level was low (almost empty tank). Without any external coolant leaks, the spark plugs were removed... Bam The #3 plug was wet and coolant poured out of the plug hole! I had replaced the lower intake manifold about 5 years ago for leaking into the #5 cylinder. Could it be the lower intake manifold again, or maybe head gasket or cracked block?
Question? I am guessing BUT HOPING NOT the starter has enough torque to bend the connecting rod or valves? The engine never started or even hit on any cylinder. Is there a good way to check for damage without disassembly of the engine? Compression check maybe?
This is my 2nd FORD broke TODAY! Maybe I need to re-think the brand?

Thanks
romeodz

 

The only damage that may have occured would be a bent connecting rod. The easiest way to check for that would be to remove all of the plugs (make hand turning easier). Then insert a rod into #1 cylinder and rotate the engine until the piston is at BOTTOM CENTER. Mark the rod at the spark plug hole. Compare it with all others. A bent rod will go farther down than one that's not bent.

 

Thanks for the advise... I will give it a try as soon as I fix my daughters truck here: https://www.fordforum.com/forum/ford-ranger-16/1999-excab-4x4-4-0-auto-wont-start-23367/ (any ideas please help)

Do you think it could be the lower intake manifold leaking again or possibly a head gasket?

Thanks
romeodz

 

I would suspect the lower intake gaskets again. I would also look at the lower intake manifold for any cracks. The early models had a bad reputation for cracking. As far as the head gaskets go, I personally wouldn't suspect them. Even though there was an issue with the 3.8L Essex engine, the problem was resolved. Also, the head gasket issue was primarly related to FWD vehicles. This was due to a cheap head gasket provided by a Ford vendor coupled with a RWD engine placed into a FWD configuration. This caused Ford to reverse the flow of coolant casusing cylinders # 3 & 6 to run hotter than designed (Primary cause for tranny issues with the Freestar/Monterey when maint schedule not followed). This in turn caused the head gaskets to basically get squished out of place casuing coolant to flow into the cylinders.

Anyways, I would look at a new set of intake manifold gaskets and a new lower intake manifold.

 

Use Common Sense - I used you method of "gaging" the depth of the piston stroke. I done the #3 cylinder (the bad one) and also #1 cylinder. Both looked to be exactly the same depth. Good thing!
I removed the lower intake manifold. The gasket does not look bad. At least not like it did in 2005 (0r 06, cant remember) when I replaced it then.
I'm guessing its the head gasket or a cracked head, although I don't recall it getting hot before all this happened.

Is removing the head a difficult job? Does it take a long time? If it is a fairly straight forward job I may do it?
I am thinking of selling this truck as is. At almost 196,000 miles is too many to throw more money at the truck.

Any suggestion before I give this truck away?

Thanks
romeodz

 

Do you know if the gasket was ever replaced for the timing chain cover? There was an issue with the 1997-99 timing covers leaking coolant into the engine. Also, the rare occurance for the head bolts to stretch after torque and allow the head gasket(s) to leak later in life. Ther early 4.2's also experienced lower intake manifold cracking. Any of these would cause coolant to leak into the cylinders.

In re-reading your post, it looks like your leak would seal itself as the engine warmed up. I would be looking at the head bolt stretch/gasket senario.

As far as selling the truck, that would be your call. What kind of shape is it in mechanically? Do you want a new truck and does it make sense to purchase a new/used truck vs. repairing this one? If you keep it, I personally would look for a low mileaged 2004 and up 4.2 as they were a solid engine from 2004 and up and just do an engine swap. Especially since all of the bugs were beat out of the 4.2's by 2004 model year.

Granted the 4.2 in my Freestar only has 97,500 miles on it, but it hasn't peeped at all. My maintainence proceedures are proceedures are probably over-board to most people.

Such as:

1. Full coolant flush/fill with new anti-freese and AMSOIL coolant boost every 2 years
2. Oil/Filter change once a year with AMSOIL oil and filter
3. Dis-assemble front and rear brakes, clean everything and regrease slid pins every spring & fall
4. Clean AMSOIL air filter every year and replace every 4 years
5. Repalce wear and tear items evey 4 years (Plugs, wires, coil, belt and so on)
6. Run snow tires all year round, rotate every 10,000 miles and run a taller tire and higher air pressure
7. Did a tranny filter and fluid change at 30,000 miles with AMSOIL, will do another at 100,000 miles (this year)
8. Added a P/S filter and replace the fluid and filter every 2 years

And on and on...(Just rambling)

 

The gasket for the timing chain cover has never been replaced, only the lower intake gasket replaced previously. The current leak is the #3 cylinder (LH side next to the firewall, when facing the truck) which is opposite end of the engine as the timing chain. Should I still be concerned for this gasket being the problem?
I have removed the lower intake and the gaskets looked intact. I have also looked at the lower intake itself for a crack, especially at the affected cylinder area and nothing found ... yet although I will clean it more and look again.
I do believe I will continue with removal of the heads and see if the gasket is torn / cracked. I have never went into a (truck) engine this far but find this somewhat an "enjoyable learning" so far.
Should I comply with a compression test to verify a leaking head gasket before removing the heads? Also, is there a way to tell during disassembly if this engine had an issue with a "head bolt stretch" issue? Loose head bolts, etc?

Thanks for your assistance

 

You can do a compression test, however it may not show anything on a cold engine. Sometimes the leak only opens up when the engine is hot. But I would do one anyways. As far as the head removals, I believe that there is a reverse torque procedure for removing the head bolts. A shoP manual would be quite handy. I know when we were replacing the 3.8 head gaskets, we had to log all of the reverse torque specs on the head bolts. Not sure about the 4.2 though. Here is some additional information/help for you.

FORD TSB # 02-1-4 specifies that the head gaskets are to be DRY fitted.
This means that NO sealant aids are to be used, and they want ALL oil removed from the mating surfaces.

FORD TSB #2-11-4 states that NO metal is to be used to clean the mating surfaces.....they even go so far as to say NOT to use razor blades.

Wooden, or nylon tools with solvent are to be used to remove all gasket materials from the head gasket mating surfaces.

The reason that they give is that any nicks, however small will lead to wicking of coolant and / or oil and gasket sealing failure.
The same statement is made about any oil or sealant materials that get onto the mating surfaces.....that they will prevent correct bonding of the gasket to the metal surface.

I use wood spacers (think paint stirrers) when installing heads. Place two stacks of wood spacers on top of the new gasket ... carefully lower the head in place atop the wood spacers... loosely install all head bolts ... lift up on head while an assistant removes the wood stacks. Guaranteed to prevent head surface and gasket damage.

 

Well, I havent done any additional work to the engine for the lock-up. But I have had another thought with an engine change. It seem some poeple have been installing the Cummins 4bT with good sucess in the F150's. Anyone here done this swap before or any thoughts?

 

I haven't done one, but I don'y see why it couldn't be done. Dimensional wise, you should be OK being the 4BT is a smaller engine than the 4.2

You would have to calculate the front springs as there is a weight difference of about 350 lbs. with the 4BT weighing in at about 750+ lbs.

But anything is do-able. HP wise, the 4BT is about 100 HP less than the 4.2, but is right at the torque w/265 vs. 260 from the 4.2

You would have to work up a bell housing for the transaxle to mate up to the 4BT.

Then thiers the fuel delivery system, computer, exhaust and so on...

But again...Anything is do-able...