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Bad carburetor

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  #1  
Old 03-12-2015, 04:58 PM
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Default Bad carburetor

I'm sick of this 7200VV carburetor on my 83 F-150 and was told by Ford to junk it and buy a motorcraft 2150. I'm ok with that but they said I would have to make some electrical alterations, they didn't offer much information on that, any ideas out there
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  #2  
Old 03-12-2015, 05:26 PM
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It has been a long time since I played with one of those. Unless someone that is still working on them reads your post and can guide you , how about you tell us how many electrical wires are going to the 7200 right now. The reason I ask is you may have an idle stop solenoid, an electric choke, and maybe one other electrical connection going to it.
The idle speed/stop solenoid just prevents it from dieseling when shut down and kick up the idle if you have A/C. The electric choke was fed off one of the alt posts.
I don't know if you could even get parts for the 7200.
 
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Old 03-12-2015, 10:58 PM
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Hanky it only has wires going to the stepper motor aka the mixture control motor and 2 wires to the choke cap. I've rebuilt this thing twice before, seems to start and idle great but when it gets warmed up and get it on the highway but stalls at stop lights etc. The stepper motor has 5 wires I believe. What ford was suggesting is that I swap the distributor and the ignition box from the Brown grommet to the more common Blue grommet style, there's where the wiring comes into play. Hope that somewhat answers your question. Thanks beaglerock
 
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Old 03-12-2015, 11:00 PM
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Oh and no mine doesn't have the idle solenoid, it's a vacuum controlled one
 
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Old 03-13-2015, 03:46 AM
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If the only problem is stalling when warm , can you pin it down to slow idle speed, insufficient fuel, or possible vacuum leak? Would probably be easier to correct that than swap out the carb and open "Pandora's Box" and have all the worms come out?
 
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Old 03-13-2015, 05:50 PM
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I've adjusted the idle speed till I'm blue in the face, it's almost like it could be the O2 sensor because it runs very rich and when I say rich I mean darn near raw gas. I've unplugged the sensor but seems to run worse not that it's running bad. However it gets to the point where you throw your hands up and say I give. Anyway thanks Hanky
 
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Old 03-13-2015, 05:53 PM
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P.S. I've even swapped the computer on this thing, Fortunately found one with the same calibration #s didn't help
 
  #8  
Old 03-14-2015, 02:50 AM
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Now that we know it is running rich, we can start checking for the reasons it could be rich. Will have to dig in and take a refresher course and catch up to what you know. Hang in there.

When you did the rebuild, did you replace the float? As you are aware they do get heavy and will sink and allow excess fuel to run into the carb giving an excessively rich mixture. As far as the adjustments, usually a good kit included the steps for installation and the correct adjustments done in the right sequence. Were you able to do that?
 

Last edited by hanky; 03-14-2015 at 03:05 AM.
  #9  
Old 03-14-2015, 02:21 PM
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No Hanky I didn't replace the float either time so it's pretty old, in fact it's the original. Evidently this carb was prone to running rich according to articles I've read in the past on this thing, one other electrical connection I failed to mention earlier was Throttle position sensor which I've never replaced (probably should)
 
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Old 03-14-2015, 02:26 PM
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As far as the kit for adjustment I basically got old parts like the cold enrichment rod assy. Off of other carbs and used those as a reference, there all very close to being the same so I would count the threads that were viewable and set my new up the same way.
Sorry I keep thinking of things!
 


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