i have a 2001 f-250 v-10 with 5 cylinders mis firing 1,2,6,7,10 all new cops all new plugs an all new injectors od light flashes over 20 mph an runs ruff under 2,000 rpms but over seams to run smooth but gutless any help would be nice

 

The last time I became involved with a problem similar to this the PCM was the problem.
Is there any chance the coil plugs were mixed up? Did you have the same problem before replacing the plugs and coils?
Have you checked for any codes in the PCM ?
You might want to check the PCM plugs for any water intrusion.

 

i had the same problem when i bought the truck but it had a blown tranny an this was my first gas truck im a deisel guy an i just started throwing parts at it but next week i am geting the pcm reflashed at ford to see what that does

 

And a couple of other suggestions. Don't bother with a reflash; Ford can't release a car that misfires. It didn't leave the dealership that sold it that way, so it's not in the programming.
This is a hardware concern. Are there any ancilliary codes for fuel trims in there? Second, can you totally disconnect the wires from the alternator and road test it to see if the problem changes? Third, is the BARO about right for your area? I realize that all this requres a scanner with datastream (even limited), but it's well worth the investment with these problems.
With this many problems though, you may just want to start with an old fashioned compression test, just to make sure you have an engine that can run well without major engine work.
After that, fix the transmission. I'm sure Hanky can help with that. Remember, I'm just a hack! He's better then me.

 

I don't know what your circumstances are, but if you know of a good shop with knowledge of how to use a scope , they can run a relative compression test by just connecting the leads to the battery and cranking the engine. You would get the results instantly. They could also check the primary ignition system for operation . It's rare to have so many cylinders misfiring at the same time unless the signals are absent or the timing for them from the PCM is N/G. Poor connections are always a possibility and a good scope man/woman could help pin that down.

 

i had a compresion test done when i got the new tranny in an it was good i tried unhooking the battery with the lights on for a half hour ther alternater tested good

 

If I'm incorrect , Greasemark will, I'm sure help you and me.
The reason it was suggested to disconnect the alternator from working and creating a magnetic field with radio frequency interference, was to see if that caused any of the problems you are seeing. When certain wires get within that area it causes stray signals that cause all kinds of problems. You could still try Greasemark's suggestion and see what effect it may have on the misfires.

 

any help would work i been at it for 4 months now with this truck

 

If there was a bad coil, it could have wiped out the PCM. If you have ruled out everything else, go for the PCM (computer). A lot of guys aren't sure so they keep trying one thing after another and spending more than a replacement PCM costs.

 

Ok, Hanky, now you're REALLY GOT IT COMMING! I mentioned the alternator trick because 1) it's easy, and 2) I've seen stranger things. No harm, no foul to try. I've never really needed a relative compression test because my "calibrated ear" can hear the lope that engines make when the compression goes away. I'm sure you're much better then I am (probably at just about everything), and you probably can just look at it and diagnose it correctly. Some of us are just not as bright, so we have to work with what we have. A short retrospective might help.
First, we know that the base engine (the compression part, as told by the writer) is good. That means under all the bad advice, we have an engine that SHOULD run well. Great, we all know that.
Second, it's got everything it needs to run well, just not everywhere or at the right time, possibly both.
At this point, get a little more literal. PCM's do go bad, and I will easily concede that it could be a problem. I would still (mr. writer)still love to know the specific codes, as this is very revealing. And I doubt (but will concede the point further) that's it's unlikely that the PCM is causing both a really nasty misfire AND a trans O/D light (though, it's not impossible.)
I would pull out the plug and coil, leave the plug out for a moment, and install the pluginto the coil, ground it out, and start it up just to make sure that you really DON'T have spark (it will run the same, just noisier). If you don't, then take a 12 volt test light. There are 2 wires going into the coil plug connecotor. One should be red, possilby with a tracer, and the other will be something else. With the key on, eng. off, there should be battery voltage on the red wire; and it should be there anytime the engine is running.
Then, connect the test light to the positive battery terminal and backprobe the OTHER wire on the coil connector , start the engine and observe. The light should flash, which denotes the coil driver and wiring in the PCM are doing their job, and the coil is at fault.
I could believe this in 1 or 2 holes, but not 5.
If you see the test light come on and stay on with the KOEO, then you have a short in the coil driver or wiring that goes back to the PCM. If it never flashes, that's an open.
The more that's being described here, the more this sounds like a fried wiring loom that melted on the exhause manifold or corroded a large connector somewhere. I would start by looking very closely at the loom, on both that eng. and trans. You may find something like a bulge that would indicate someone had it apart and was repairing it, or possibly some kind or other damage.
And if you need any more help, just let us know.