I have a 1999 F-250 v-10 that i beleive needs a new belt tensioner. I replaced the belt because i thought that was the problem and it needed replacing anyways. I was getting a bad screeching noise around 1500-1600 rpms, but now it doesnt do it until it reaches 2000-2300rpm. Im assuming this is what it is and i have had a couple service advisors say that this is probably the problem as well.I was just going to buy a new Gates-Belt Tensioner Assembly from O'reillys and was wondering how hard this is to replace. I'm pretty handy and good at mechanics as i have done other mechanical things but have never tried this. Is there any special tools involved?

 

Doesn't require anything special for tools..

Be sure to check the idler pulley as well...

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looks pretty easy. I'll replace the Idler pulley as well. Thanks!!

 

Pay special attention to the alignment of the belt. If one of the pulleys (say from the alternator,etc.) isn't lined up correctly it will often scream. This often happens when installing replacement parts (like alternators) because the parts companies may sometimes not have their pulleys lined up correctly. If the belt is not looking the slightest bit crooked going on or coming off a pulleythe only other problem can be the tensioner (or occasionally a cheap brand of belt).

 

Ive only had the belt off once and that was to replace the AC compresser, which was a takeoff part and it was fine for a year or so after that. I then replaced the belt a couple months because it was making the same noise and thought it mighta been the belt. It was in pretty bad shape, but we'll try replacing the tensioner first.

 

Well, i replaced the tensioner, but it didnt solve the problem. Could it be something other than the idler pulley? I didnt replace that, but being a $25 part isnt a big deal, but dont really want to spend that if its not the problem

 

Second time - check the belt isn't running onto any of the pulleys slightly sideways. This will usually make the belt scream. The other thing you can do instead of replacing the idler pulley is - spray some grease on it's bearing area. If the screaming stops the bearing was dry (then maybe replace it). They usually don't go bad so quick though. I'd look at how the belt is coming onto each pulley as it runs and listen to where the noise comes from (it may just be lighter noise when not up to speed). Last - I've had dry alternator bearings scream sometimes (but this is a last resort).

 

Ok, i had a buddy that is a service advisor hear under the hood when i reved it to 2000 RPM. He didnt hear anything. He got in and pushed it to 2000 rpm and said it is something with the exhaust. He said something probably came loose and needs to be tack welded. Anybody heard of anything like this? Like i said, it does it at 2000-2200 rpm and if i take it to 3000 or whatever it does it when the engine revs down through that 2000rpm range. would it be something with my catalitic converter or my muffler maybe? If this is the case, i will put dual exhaust as i have wanted to do this for a while now anyways.

 

If a converter cover broke loose one of it's spot welds all you'd have to do is "tack" (spot) weld it back together. If you really want dual exhaust though - you could save the money from welding and put it toward that instead. I'd suggest factory duals for an easier fit - although you could probably change the piping to an aftermarket style from the converters back.

 

yeah, i will look into the tack weld. Im not planning on putting on duals, but if i have to replace the mufflers and/or whatever else, then i will look at doing the duals. I am going to make the apointment to get it in and fixed and i'll update you what the outcome was.

Thanks
Andrew