My 2002 f250 7.3 is a bear to start when it's cold (anything less than 40 degrees). Once it warms up not another problem.
After reading all the posts I took it to the ford dealer and they replaced the CMP sensor (cam postion sensor).
I really hoped this would work BUT DIDNT???
I looked for the wires running into the valve covers in hope that it might be the GP or GP relay, but found no wires running into my valve covers?
Can the Gp's keep it from starting? Where's the relay located?
Now this morning while trying to start the truck it quit starting and just clicks? All lights and gauges work normal? Batteries are full. I put a charger on both batteries and let charge till they read full. But nothing, just clicks?
Please help this is day 2 of missed work. I don't have the 125.00 for tow, or the 200.00 ford wants for diagnostic check!!!

 

Is your S/D a Calif. emmission truck?

CA trucks will have a glow control module, and nonwill have a glow relay.. If the glow system isn't working it can/will make for a very hard starting engine, more so in the colder temps.. If the block heater is plugged in, does it start normally in the AM's??

The glow relay (if equipped) sits just to the right (passenger side) of the engine dress cover.. Looks like a starter solenoid, two large lugs, and two small.. If module equipped, it's in the same area, mounts to bracket and is a aluminum looking box with cooling fins.. The UVC harness/s plug right into the valve cover gaskets one per side and the harness's are wrapped in red tape.. The later 7.3's didn't have as much problem burning the UVC connections, but not unheard of..If the connectors are bulged or show signs of excessive heat on the 'outter most' pins (outter 2 pins on each side of each connector) than the connection/s may be failed..

If you crank for over extended amounts of time, you can overheat the starter and damage it.. Could be as simple as the stater relay, or starter solenoid as well.. You might try jumping the solenoid on the starter direct to see if the starter engages/cranks..

The 7.3 needs to have 'minimum' of 100RPM to start.. If the batts aren't hot enough, or are at the end of their service life, coupled withvolt/amps drop with glow cycling ect. and cranking speed drops below spec, it won't start.. Each should be uncabled and load tested individually.. Even jump assist attempts with a donor with lower than needed available cranking amps, and less than quality cables, make for a hard/no start..

 

Not to mention that a powerstroke will start at under 40 degrees without even letting the GPs cycle. My 97 was never plugged in and never failed to start. I even had it fire up at -5 with a -20 windchill and not plugged in. I did cycle the GPs a few times but it started none the less and it was still on its 6 year old original batteries. Now if the GPs arent functioning it will become very hard to start at around freezing temps but should fire up at 40. If you have overheated the starter from excessive cranking, you may have destroyed it and may be why you are getting clicks from it.

 

hi, sounds like abad glow plug relay to me (only if this recently started happening) butit also sounds like you fried your starter motor too-the processor needs 9volts to keep "alive" to work the IDM and all the sensors-and that is along with the heavy draw of the glow plugs(if working) and the starter turning the motor over-so a strong starter and heavy duty batteries are a must in cold weather-after you replace your burnt up starter try plugging the block heater in, if it starts easy then i would guess a malfunctioning glow plug relay,mark.