2010 f250 v10 no throttle
#1
11-18-2015, 08:51 PM
2010 f250 v10 no throttle
I have a 2010 F250 with the V10 and 42000 miles. Lost power while pulling a trailer. Couldn't get over 30 mph. Tried turning back home and lost all power and would barely idle. Fuel filter good air filter good. Code P0300 came up. Towed it back to the house and then couldn't even get it to idle. Wouldn't throttle up past about 2800 rpm. Cleaned MAF sensor and nothing. Somewhere during all that P0174 code came up and misfire cylinder 10. Cleared codes and they haven't come back. Now when trying to crank, it barely turns over, yet battery is good. Opened air filter cover after getting it to start one time and there was some light smoke coming out. Also while barely keeping it running for a little bit, the catalytic converter on the driver side was fire hot and the other side I could grab with my hand. Any help??
#2
11-19-2015, 07:40 AM
Not quite sure of what you mean by , "barely turns over".
Usually that would mean the engine is being cranked very slowly.
Is this what you mean?
If it is , there could be more than one problem.
The difference in temp of the converters tells us there is a possible fuel problem and that may involve the electronic throttle control.
Usually that would mean the engine is being cranked very slowly.
Is this what you mean?
If it is , there could be more than one problem.
The difference in temp of the converters tells us there is a possible fuel problem and that may involve the electronic throttle control.
#3
11-19-2015, 11:01 AM
Not quite sure of what you mean by , "barely turns over".
Usually that would mean the engine is being cranked very slowly.
Is this what you mean?
If it is , there could be more than one problem.
The difference in temp of the converters tells us there is a possible fuel problem and that may involve the electronic throttle control.
Usually that would mean the engine is being cranked very slowly.
Is this what you mean?
If it is , there could be more than one problem.
The difference in temp of the converters tells us there is a possible fuel problem and that may involve the electronic throttle control.
Yes, it cranks like a dead or almost dead battery. Didn't start doing that until after I had been messing with it awhile and trying to diagnose the problem.
#4
11-19-2015, 03:20 PM
For a 2010 it should not have corroded battery cables, but not knowing the condition anything is possible.
Don't know what you worked on or what you did, but it is always a good place to start with battery cable connections. It should crank over normally no matter what else could be wrong , so you need to correct that first. How did you determine the battery is good ? A word to the wise, NEVER connect jumper or jump start anybody with the key to your vehicle on ! The voltage spike can wipe out your vehicles computer very easily. If the battery is original, it is suspect. It did not overheat by any chance , did it ?
The problem with the cranking and converter may be cam phaser related. Did the engine make any rattling noise before it really got bad ?
Don't know what you worked on or what you did, but it is always a good place to start with battery cable connections. It should crank over normally no matter what else could be wrong , so you need to correct that first. How did you determine the battery is good ? A word to the wise, NEVER connect jumper or jump start anybody with the key to your vehicle on ! The voltage spike can wipe out your vehicles computer very easily. If the battery is original, it is suspect. It did not overheat by any chance , did it ?
The problem with the cranking and converter may be cam phaser related. Did the engine make any rattling noise before it really got bad ?
#5
11-19-2015, 06:11 PM
From what you describe , it sounds like either one of the cam phasers has stopped working or there is a chain problem. You may need to remove the valve covers to see this. The slow cranking could be due to a timing problem where the compression and valve timing are opposing the starter . If you removed the plugs and pulled the fuel pump fuse you may be able to pin down which side is not functioning. It could be something like a bad solenoid for the phaser control. Did you notice any reduction of oil pressure at any time?
#8
11-21-2015, 04:58 PM
Haven't had a chance to get it to the dealer yet. Pulled the O2 sensor on the side of the red hot cat upstream, and it cranked with is and started right up. Still a little rough so I took off the upstream sensor on the other side and she's purring like a kitten now. There is a recall on the y pipe. Does the y pipe include the cat's??
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