2004 Ford Freestar SEL 4.2L.

The AC compressor clutch is not engaging. I am not a mechanic, so don't have all these tools you mechanics talk about so I would like help in 2 year old English please.

I understand that I can use a paper clip in the fuse to test if the clutch even turns at all(it's not jammed, I can turn it with my hand.) But, I don't know which fuse is the AC compressor fuse, and which slot to put the paper clip into. Photo or drawing of this fuse box with the paper clip in please? I'm sorry, but I really do not speak mechanic or electrician.

If after following detailed instructions given by someone who responds to this thread, and the clutch engages, what does that mean? That my AC just needs to be recharged? Is this something I can do myself, buying a can from the part store?

I've got to get the ac working because the passenger window doesn't roll down, and I don't have a bunch of money to put into either AC repair or fixing the window problem.

Also, I can hear a faint creaking in my steering wheel at all speeds, but it's loud when I turn left. Is this a ball joint problem? Can it just be lubed or am I looking at an expensive repair? I actually have access to syringes and needles. If I can get under there and get some grease into the boots, what kind of grease should I use?

A while back my mechanic said I needed to get my stabilizers replaced, after he had done the tie rods, but to be honest, I've lost trust in my mechanic after I was charged 1000 dollars for a break job on my old Saturn SL2. So, I always try to See what he's talking about when he says something needs to be done. But when I get under the front end of my van, Nothing moves, they aren't loose, there's no knocking, nothing is broken that I can see. They are rusty, but not rusted, if you know what I mean. This of course is coming from someone(me) who doesn't even know what I'm looking at so me not seeing something obvious doesn't mean anything, really. Is this related to the squeaking steering?

And lastly, could I do an oil change on my van for cheaper than the mechanic will charge me? I assume so, right? How hard are the filters to get off without that tool the mechanics use?

 

Just so you know, "we all started the same way you are starting !"
Your post has something for everyone to chew on.
Sooo, I'm going to start with one of the real complicated questions. The OIL CHANGE. You may be able to do it cheaper if you have an oil filter wrench, a pan that can hold at least 6-8 qts of used oil, the proper size wrench to loosen the oil pan drain plug, a pair of vinyl or latex gloves to keep the oil off your hands, and possibly a set of vehicle ramps, a way to legally dispose of the use oil and either a creeper to roll under the vehicle so you can see what you're doing or a nice soft piece of old carpet that you don't want anymore and of course the correct replacement oil and a funnel.
Have we exceeded the cost of the mechanic doing the job yet?
I'm probably gonna get a lot of static for this , but these are some of the things you will need to do the job. It certainly isn't difficult to do an oil change , but those of us who do it all the time don't even think about all the things you should have to do the job. Still wanna try it?

 

The only thing I don't have an oil filter wrench. My dad never owned one. Do I really have to have it?

The oil change is the LEAST of my worries right now. It's the steering(which I meant to say creaking LEFT turns) and the AC.

Any help with that/

 

I will chew a little on this part:

"Also, I can hear a faint creaking in my steering wheel at all speeds, but it's loud when I turn left. Is this a ball joint problem? Can it just be lubed or am I looking at an expensive repair? I actually have access to syringes and needles. If I can get under there and get some grease into the boots, what kind of grease should I use?"

A faint creaking in the steering (wheel). Does tahtmean you dont hear anything when you go in a straight line but when you turn the wheel it creaks, when keep it in the turning position it does not creak and when you straighten it up it creaks again? My first guess would be the strut mounts. They have a so called thrust bearing in them that allows the strut to twist for steering. Mine creak like an old door from the Dracula movies. It is scary, entertaining but harmless. But my experience does not mean yours is harmless too. Unfortunately there are so many moving parts that I can't cover them typing here.

I would use synthetic grease in the ball joints and tie rod ends. They originally came with a "permanent lube" which means it was high quality long lasting lube that should last about 100K miles.


A while back my mechanic said I needed to get my stabilizers replaced, after he had done the tie rods, but to be honest, I've lost trust in my mechanic after I was charged 1000 dollars for a break job on my old Saturn SL2. So, I always try to See what he's talking about when he says something needs to be done. But when I get under the front end of my van, Nothing moves, they aren't loose, there's no knocking, nothing is broken that I can see. They are rusty, but not rusted, if you know what I mean. This of course is coming from someone(me) who doesn't even know what I'm looking at so me not seeing something obvious doesn't mean anything, really. Is this related to the squeaking steering?

"This of course is coming from someone(me) who doesn't even know what I'm looking at" Try google image searches. Like "Freestar tie rod end" "Freestar sway bar link"
Try Youtube: How to diagnose ..........fill in the blank.


I command you for taking charge and not blindly trusting a mechanic.

 

When I drive straight at all speeds, the creaking is faint. It's harder to hear on the highway but still there if one concentrates. Creaks loudly on left hand turns at all speeds. No creaking on Right hand turns. The creaking sound I have is a bit less than the Dracula Door sound when I turn left, more like a groan, but not quite a power steering groan. Again, NO sound when turning right, not even slightly. Power steering fluid is dark, and we are in the process of flushing, about a half gallon of Mercon V used so far.

The car has over 90k on it, but as I said, the tie rods were done last July. So I would assume they greased everything that needed to be.

When I had the tie rods done, the mechanic whom I've used for 20 years so I used to trust them, said I was going to have to have the stabilzers done. And until I had them done I would hear knocking. I have heard nothing, until recently this creaking. And, as I have also said, I've gotten under the front end and tried wiggling things around and nothing moves. Located the stabilizers, tried moving them. Not an inch of give. Was he joshing me? Everything does look bone dry under there. Everything looks rusty, just like any undercarriage I've ever seen(and that's not many), but nothing looks ominous.

Do you mean synthetic engine oil? Or something more specific to this part?

 

Update: drove to work today. No sounds from steering at all while moving. Only when in park or have break on there is a creaky groan when i turn the wheel both directions. Its about 72 degrees right now outside if that makes a difference.

 

No, not engine oil. Engine oil goes into engines. Grease, synthetic grease. Grease is a soap that contains oil.
The groan could come for the lower ball joints. Or it could come for the power steering pump. You could try to push air bubbles out of the system. While idling the engine move the steering wheel slowly from one stop to the other a few times. If you put the front wheels on a really smooth surface, like extra thick plastic bags it is easier to do.
Does it say you need Mercon V? I believe my Windstar uses "Mercon" without a number. Mercon V goes into the transmission.

 

 

Well, this isnt a windstar, its a freestar and yes im sure. Atf was replaced with V.

 

And mercon IS transmission fluid. No matter what kind. Lol. And yes, thats what u put in your power steering. Geez.