steering shake/warped rotors?
#1
steering shake/warped rotors?
I had this problem since I purchased this vehicle and got both front rotors replaced and the problem still comes back
At short, when I brake after going anyway over 40mph, the steering shakes....took it to my mechanic, said the one rotor was warped....replaced it......GOOD, for like 3 months....took it back, the other rotor, warped.....replaced....good....now like 5 months later.....its happening again.......does anyone know a solution that is permanent?....also, I heard rotors can't warp, is this true?.....getting frustrated
2004 freestar btw
At short, when I brake after going anyway over 40mph, the steering shakes....took it to my mechanic, said the one rotor was warped....replaced it......GOOD, for like 3 months....took it back, the other rotor, warped.....replaced....good....now like 5 months later.....its happening again.......does anyone know a solution that is permanent?....also, I heard rotors can't warp, is this true?.....getting frustrated
2004 freestar btw
#2
what kind of mechanic changes one rotor? Do you have a backyarder fixing your car? You must address both rotors at the same time. if one rotor had runout, the second probably had some too.
yes, its the front rotors. have them replaced by someone who will have a look at the existing brakes for possible signs on dragging brakes...etc. make sure the rear brakes are working and that the fronts are not doing all the work.
put on new rotors, pads and get the caliper pins and brackets cleaned. get quality parts. I have seen cheap line, new rotors 10 thou out right out of the box.
stacked tolerances can also cause this...combined lateral runout of the hub/bearing itself and the rotor. in rare cases, match mounting and on car machining of the assembly is required. the on car lathe measures and cancels out the stacked run out when it makes it cut. the fact that it went away when the rotor was replaced makes me think this will not apply in your case.
yes, its the front rotors. have them replaced by someone who will have a look at the existing brakes for possible signs on dragging brakes...etc. make sure the rear brakes are working and that the fronts are not doing all the work.
put on new rotors, pads and get the caliper pins and brackets cleaned. get quality parts. I have seen cheap line, new rotors 10 thou out right out of the box.
stacked tolerances can also cause this...combined lateral runout of the hub/bearing itself and the rotor. in rare cases, match mounting and on car machining of the assembly is required. the on car lathe measures and cancels out the stacked run out when it makes it cut. the fact that it went away when the rotor was replaced makes me think this will not apply in your case.
Last edited by primem; 04-05-2015 at 10:07 PM.
#3
Thanx for the info.....I will look into it....and my mechanic is actually pretty good, I trust him and been going there for years and never had any issues
Also when I googled it, it seems to be a popular problem with the freestar, think its just the parts they used?
What are good "quality" rotors and brakes I should look into?
Thank you
Also when I googled it, it seems to be a popular problem with the freestar, think its just the parts they used?
What are good "quality" rotors and brakes I should look into?
Thank you
#5
well, you have an issue now. buy your mechanic a book on brake theory. the effect of heat, heat dissipation and friction co-efficients = topic 1.
google break shake and it will come up for every car ever made. I am not a ford tech so I don't work on these cars but I bet it has no more rotors problems than any other vehicle.
oem parts are good. there are different lines of aftermarket brake parts; don't buy the cheapest ones. I do buy the cheap lines but I service my brakes yearly. Sadly, most people don't even know what a brake service is. I'm betting a guy who installs one rotor is one of them.
google break shake and it will come up for every car ever made. I am not a ford tech so I don't work on these cars but I bet it has no more rotors problems than any other vehicle.
oem parts are good. there are different lines of aftermarket brake parts; don't buy the cheapest ones. I do buy the cheap lines but I service my brakes yearly. Sadly, most people don't even know what a brake service is. I'm betting a guy who installs one rotor is one of them.
Last edited by primem; 04-07-2015 at 08:09 PM.
#6
Here's what I posted before on Freestar rotor issues:
"As far as warping rotors, I was having the same issue with mine for quite a while a few years back. Even when using rotors from Ford. They would just eventually warp. I ended up buying a set of Raybestos #680190 Advanced Technology Disc Brake Rotors for the front. Problem has not returned since. Since I'm in the salt belt, I also disassemble my front and rear brakes every spring and fall since they are prone to having the slider pins crud up causing the calipers not to operate correctly (not relax after breaking). Calipers hanging up are another cause for rotors to warp due to excessive heat."
I've had no rotor/brake issues for years since installing the Raybestos rotors and I'm at about 176,000 miles on my Freestar to date.
"As far as warping rotors, I was having the same issue with mine for quite a while a few years back. Even when using rotors from Ford. They would just eventually warp. I ended up buying a set of Raybestos #680190 Advanced Technology Disc Brake Rotors for the front. Problem has not returned since. Since I'm in the salt belt, I also disassemble my front and rear brakes every spring and fall since they are prone to having the slider pins crud up causing the calipers not to operate correctly (not relax after breaking). Calipers hanging up are another cause for rotors to warp due to excessive heat."
I've had no rotor/brake issues for years since installing the Raybestos rotors and I'm at about 176,000 miles on my Freestar to date.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post