Hey Guys
I am new to the board. I have a 93 ranger with about 220k on it and the motor is still running great. I had some issues with my clutch last week. My pedal was going to the floor and you could tell there were issues with pressure. I took it a local shop and they dropped tranny put a new clutch and slave cylinder in now they cant get it to pressure up. Can anyone give me some advice on bleeding the slave cylinder. The dealer says it is a pain in the butt, but I was hoping someone here would know some tricks. Thanks ! Mike

 

I've done several, but don't ever remember having problems with bleeding out system. Sometime it does help to compress the slave cylinder/throwout bearing with prybar, and while holding this compressed try your normal bleeding on slave cylinder. Could also have a bad clutch M/C

 

Thanks Wheels for the reply. I will pass it on to the shop. Mike

 

Mike

I had the same problem when I replaced my clutch and slave cylinder at 50,000 miles,was told you can't bleed it like you do brakes.I tried for several hours and never could get a clutch.
Man told me to raise the front of the truck and the air would rise thru the fluid,I left it raised for 24 hours and it worked

 

Told a neighbor I'd help him bleed clutch...you know, pump pedal and hold, then crack the bleeder. After I was done it was worse! Next day I gravity bled (just opened the slave bleeder and let it bleed quite a bit while keeping the Master filled. Then I had him press the clutch ONCE and hold while I cracked the bleeder just to get any last bit of air out. It seems like pumping the pedal introduced more air in than I was getting out.

 

FORDS ARE PIECES OF **** IVE BEEN WORKING ON A 93 FORD EXPLODER FOR 6 DAYS STRAIGHT DROPPED THE TRANNY REPLACED THE SLAVE CYLINDER THE ENTIRE CLUTCH SYSTEM THE TRANSFER CASE EVERYTHANG AND AM STILL HAVING TROUBLE WITH BLEEDING THE MOTHER ****ER..........

SO **** A FORD........

 

I had this same problem with my '94 Ranger. The clutches are very difficult to bleed. But it is possible with a little patience. As mentioned above, angle can help. Driving the pickup on a ramp just on the left side and then pumping the clutch helped me some. You can also purchase a Might Vac which will just suck all the air out from the bottom (easiest way to do it, about $30). Check a few things first. If you don't have the bolts that go from the clutchplate to the flywheel tightened enough, your clutch isn't going to work if you bleed it all day long. The torque specs on the bolts is a little low. I had to take my transmission completely off and retighten all the bolts before I could get the clutch to start functioning. If you've tried bleeding for a few days you might have to pull the tranny off and make sure the clutch bolts are tight. Sucks, but like I said, I found that the torque specs for those bolts just wasn't high enough to suck the clutch plate against the flywheel enough to get the clutch to work.

 

Guys with slave cylinder bleeding problems I had the same problem and went goofy trying all different suggestion that did not work..until I found this one.
Due to the location of the exit line on the master cylinder air gets trapped above it and can not escape during normal bleeding. The answer... This took me no more then 15 min. Go under the dash and find the linkage rod from the clutch pedal. find where it goes into the floor. Remove the switch mounted at this point. You should now be looking at the top of the master cylinder. Now carefully remove the snap ring in the top of the master cylinder, allow the plunger to slide a little bit out of the master cylinder until you see a steady flow of fluid. Push the plunger back in and replace the snap ring. Everything else being normal you should have great pedal pressure.

 

Take the Clutch Master cylinder loose from the firewall and turn it upside down - let it sit a few minutes - this will let the trapped air rise into the reservoir. You might press the plunger a couple of times to help it bleed itself.
Took me 2 days to figure it out after a clutch and throwout bearing replacement.
I assume you have bled it at the bleeder plug by the tranny - the air is trapped in the master cylinder because of the angle it sits on the fire wall.

 

CICIRIDER it is the best suggestion ever. It works and is not difficult at all. took me 2 hours from start to drive the track again.