I have a 2000 Ford Ranger 2WD 3.0 V6

Well sence around jan/Feb my truck doesnt want to start in the morning. I have had it crank as many as 10 times with no start, I have to put the pedel all the way to the floor for it to start. I have replaced all the plugs, I have a new fuel filter, I'm not pulling any codes, I tryed turning the key to get the fuel pump to push the gas then turn the key back to the start position then tryed to start it but still nothing...whats the problem?? After it starts there is no other problems, it idles fine runs fine no shaking or anything else, and for the rest of the day it will start on th 2nd crank.what the hell is wrong with it? does anyone know?
I also read in one of the other post about cold starting problem that they had put the wrong plugs in and they wernt firing hot enough. I was wondering what type of plugs do I want to have in there? I know i need to use motocraft but is there a certian style?

Thanks
~Brandon~[:@]

 

Putting the pedal all the way to the floor puts the computer into a "clear flood" mode and shuts off the fuel injectors during cranking. (This is true for the EEC-IV computers...I think it's true for you too). This mode is intended to clear a flooded engine. When it starts, do you see a lot of black smoke?

Also check the battery. Even though it's cranking, if it cranks at a slower than required speed, it will be very difficult to start. Try a free check at your local autoparts store.

 

Yes i get a blast of black smoke when it first starts, But i dont get anymore when I start the car anyother time thru the day. If it's not the batt. then where should I go after that?

 

I always start by cleaning the battery cables - weird grounding situations in them can wreak havok on computer cars. Next from what you said it's obviously burning something on startup. Have you ever replaced the converter in the exhaust system? This is a major engine screwball you will often find is the culprit. If not the cables I would call that number 1B on my list. When clogged they prevent the engine from easy starting - they leave no codes in the computer and they basically blow your motor to crap in no time. The main defect in converters is they are not designed with a bypass to handle older engines that begin smoking a little oil vapor out the exhaust or loosening carbon out the heads after a long drive. I hate converters as they're currently designed. Replacing it could take you from a motor "puking" to a nice running engine again.

 

A too rich of a fuel/air mixture will give you the black smoke. Sounds to me like the fuel is being dumped in during cranking, and the engine is unable to start until the mixture is rich enough...yet the black smoke indicates it's too rich. Due to recent experience of mine, here's what I'd do (but keep in mind there's several possibilities). My understanding is that the timing and injector pulse are set by the computer during cranking, and this control isdetermined by the ECT (engine coolant temp) sensor. After start, all the other sensors and actuators come into play. If there's a fault in the ECT wiring or sensor, it may give you the problem.
Just a thought for something to look at.....

 

Where would I find the ECT sensor? and what does it cost about? Also if there is a problem with it it wont throw a code will it?

 

Any computer circuit board that overloads is liable to have slight and failing grounds due to splattered, half connected and eradicated solder from their posts. So in all reality unless the dealer has accounted for all possible weird malfunctions (not possible in all reality) a computerized tester may or may not find the problem or throw out a problem code in as such. SO in short it CAN have a problem and not throw a code. Sadly most newer cars are sometimes cheaper to replace a bunch of parts than pay to find the malfunction. If you ever have antifreeze splash around under the hood - here's a tip dump a large cup or small bucket of water over the area before it dries. Antifreeze can soak and dry onto wires and when dry - shorts wires out. Just a thought if you go to replace the coolant sensor. Although I don't understand why a coolant sensor would change the timing so dramatically. How about those spark plugs? If they aren't gapped correctly they will fail. I have bought brand new sets ("pregapped") and ended up gapping them myself anyhow. Also youNEED the correct type - any parts place should be able to tell you what your truck takes. If they are too long the pistons will crush the electrodes and the gap will be gone - then there's only luck that the electrodes crushed slightly aside that would let it run. I have also experienced cheap spark plug metal once where the electrode actually exploded. All you have to do if your plugs aren't firing hot enough is gap them a little closer - but beware because too hot (too close of a gap) causes piston burn. Just basically start with the correct plugs, before you go overboard, and always double-check their gaps before installing.

 

Good advice from goinstrong. A tune-up and other basics are always the best place to start. My vehicles are older, so some things are very different. For my applications, according to my reference material, during cranking only (not after start) the only thing the computer looks at is coolant temp. It then sets a timing and injector pulse width (dwell time, or time they actually deliver fuel) based on the temperature. The pulse width replaces the choke action on carbureted engines (enriched mixture for cold engines). I can't say how the timing is altered. I'd guess it's advanced on a cold engine. On my older stuff, if there's an open in the ECT circuit, the computer thinks it's minus 40 degrees outside and will try to start the engine based on that assumption.