What we are really concerned with right now is , are we getting power to the Red/Lt Grn wire at the relay plug with the key on. According to your test results you were, but there is either not enough power getting through that Red/Lt Grn wire at the relay or the ground for the relay coil is incomplete. You need to recheck those terminals on the relay plug again and make sure also, are the contacts in the plug all the way in place to make contact with the terminals of the relay.

If all that checks out OK then you will need to loosen the underhood fuse panel and look for where the RED/LTGRN wires come together on the underside of the panel. There is a diode in that circuit . If it is removable remove it and install a jumper across those terminals and see if the relay works now. Be careful because there is power to the entire fuse panel directly from the battery positive terminal. It might be a good idea to disconnect the battery negative cable before getting into that fuse panel.
Once you find the location of the Red/LTGrn wires you will know where the diode is located. This sounds complicated, but you can do it.

 

I wonder if your son's truck was one of half year trucks or one that was made in canada. the reason I ask that question is because that might be the reason you can't get the right relay or it might explain the reason why the wiring is backwards.

 

Ok Hanky, I will do that test, Napa has tested both of the relays that they sold me, and they both tested as bad. seems strange that would happen, but I am actually hoping that they were! People are telling me that there isnt anything they can think of that would kill my relays as soon as installed, but I am getting a pre tested relay from Napa today. I will post my results. Also, Grindman, I will double check on those wire colors, thank you all.

 

Since you have a multimeter that will read resistance, the only way I know to check the relay is to measure the resistance across the two smaller terminals. Some relays will have a diode in them to prevent a voltage spike when power is removed. You should get two different readings when you reverse the test leads. If you get no reading the coil inside is open and cannot energize the relay. Do you know how NAPA tested them? Unfortunately, NAPA gets a lot of it's stuff from the land of chow mien and need I say anymore. Might be a good idea to have them test it before you leave the store. (There is a saying in the trade regarding some imported NEW stuff NEW= Never Ever Worked)
If the relay worked for a short time an excessive load on the contacts could cause them to get hot and burn, but the vehicle should still have started and ran a while. I can't think of any other way for a relay to get destroyed quickly other than that reason.

 

Hanky, you probably will believe this, but I went to napa with the second relay they sent me which didnt work, and they had ordered 2 more. they tested them all and they didn't work. 4 bad relays. Echlin parts. 2 different countries of origin. they called and ordered another from the other auto parts store in town that uses different brands. cant wait to see how that turns out! will keep you posted. Also, I am going to run another full test procedure that you gave me earlier, just to make sure. thanks again.

 

Believe me, there is no consolation for possibly being correct here.
I realize it may be difficult to get the part you need at a Ford dealer, but anyone reading my replies may want to know why I usually suggest getting your Ford parts at Ford.
Something has happened in this country where a good amount of parts are manufactured outside of the country and they are, sad to say DEFECTIVE JUNK.
Many times professional technicians will admit they insist on using only OEM parts.
They may cost a little more, but look at the problems they prevent.
Getting back to your vehicle , would like to know your results for the additional tests you plan to do.

 

I ran all the tests again on the connector. step by step. I know i did it correctly. tomorrow I am going to order a relay from ford. Tired of the aftermarket crap. and I'm going to make them test it before i leave the parts counter.

 

Ok, more problems. the relay in question is discontinued part. I can;t get if from ford. Possibly i can get it from a New OLd Stock restoration dealer. Napa actually ordered 4 different chow mein relays, tested in the store, none worked, not one. My question is, can I just buy a new connector and a new modern relay? a new "bosch" style relay has 5 pins where mine only has 4. is there a way to wire this into my system without too much trouble? also do i need to know anything about amperage for the new relay?

 

I can help you do this.
You will need the relay with the mounting tab on it
The relay plug with the wires on it (some come with the butt connectors already on the wires)
If not you will need 4 butt connectors
The blue connectors should be fine. If you can, get them with the shrink tubing on them , when done the connectors get heated slightly and are sealed from any moisture.
The relay should have 5 numbers on the underside. 85,86,30,87 & 87A
Let me know when you are ready, it should take about 1/2 hour to complete.
If you get the newer version of the relay it will already have a diode internally to protect the ign switch and prevent any voltage spikes going into the system.

 

is this a 40 amp universal relay with 5 wires? mine only has 4?