Now I see your point. It's a valid one too.

 

Hello Again,
Today we did it and put new front brakes in. I will never have C.A.P. order parts again. I was suppose to have everything ready for this morning. They did not have my rotors and also gave me two right side calipers and didn't have a left in stock. So advance auto had my rotors and NAPA had my left caliper. In all I spent $234 with cores returned. My friend installed the fronts and the brakes are great!! When he bleed the brakes the fluid was green so we kept bleeding the front brakes till he got the right color of fluid. My car runs the best it ever has really and the brakes are awesome!! As far as the tranny it maybe slipping but not bad and like the other person said I will wait till it gives out, However I will change the fluid and filter. I notice that with the new converter my rpms are lower by a couple lines. For example driving 65 It runs at 2,400 at 75 it's about 2,600 and 85-90 runs at 3,000 rpms. Now I see what people said about having the DOCH it does have a lot of power NOW!! The tranny doesn't seem to skip on regular roads and less than it did on the highway so maybe when I change the fluid and filter it will take away whatever the problem was. From 65 to say 90 it doesn't seem to delay as much as it did for some reason.

Well the next major project in sight is front and back struts. The garage gave me a estimate of $450 for parts and labor for the rear with assembly and whatever else they do. Today I thought the caliper or pad came off with a loud clunk on the front drivers side front going down the highway but the brakes still worked great. My riend said I was going to need struts in the front today. Well I think that may have made the clunk sound. Now I have enough room on passenger front to make a fist up and down but on drivers side I have to put my fist sideways and just looking at the car I can see it leans down on the drivers side by a extra inch or so.

My question would be should I do front or rear struts first? I can not afford to do both at the same time seeing I just put almost $900 into it this month. I can do one each month and catch up on bills. I hate to come here with question after question but the car just has a mind of it's own. Like I said before it is a 2001 Ford Taurus SEL DOCH with 121K on it. I want to keep it I like it and have money into it and get oil changes every 4K and use the seafoam with gas every oil change as well. After I catch up with the problems above I am going to replace all the hoses I do Not have to get from ford I already had to order one for $180 something thats near the thermostat. And fix the rust above the rear tire. Any ideas if I am going to far with this car? I would be willing to put a rebuilt tranny in when one is needed or engine and I am sure thats a few grand each but pray they don't go together LoL!

Thank you for you opinions and suggestions I do appreciate it very much!! Thank You!!

 

This is not intended to scare you , but to make you aware of what does happen.
Taurus vehicles have had problems with the coil springs rusting to the point that they break. This is how the scenario goes.
The spring breaks, it cuts into the tire and ruins the tire and now the vehicle has to be towed. If possible have the struts inspected closely for the worst ones and have those replaced first. Again if you drive where they use a lot of salt on the roads the coil springs will all have to be replaced sooner or later. The best way to replace them is to get a complete strut assembly already assembled. Then have the front end alignment done . The rears are not immune to this problem. At one time there was some type of recall about this. Not sure of just what the outcome included, but might pay to inquire about it.

 

What hanky said!
But get quality parts! My choice: Monroe Sens-A-trac.
It is actually not very difficult to replace quick-strut assemblies. But you must have the wheels aligned right after doing this.

 

This is why it failed the inspection 4 years ago the garage said it was strut on same side after a month or so the guy said it was the drivers side spring. He said he replaced the struts on both sides and the drivers side spring. It has been 4 years and 40k miles but as you said we have lots of salt every year. My friend that did the brakes is going to take a look. It still drives straight down the highway but I just put new tires on all fours not even 7k miles ago. He said it sounds like I may have ran something over in the highway but from left to right the left side is no doubt a inch lower or more. So are you saying I can get the springs with the struts? Are they easy to install or do i have to rent the tool? The garage quoted me $450 for the back struts and assembly but the front might cost more huh? Well that was a $900 repair this month but I can not afford the struts till next month now. I would say front is more important because of the ball joints and suspension stuff is my guess. Can we do the struts ourselves with a jack or would I be better off paying the $450? I like buying the better quality parts either in the middle or top notch if affordable. The rotors were wagner and the pads too. Pads was $58.99 and rotors were $89 with tax but work awesome and of course rebuilt calipers. Like I said car is better than when I first got it with the new converter so much power! My plan is to just chip away at it. After I get the struts done next month I am going to replace all hoses I don't need to order from Ford. because I see them getting fat. May get front struts done next week if have to because I don't need new tires popped and balance and rotation and alignment is only $79 from town fair tire. So I will bring to garage and see what they say get a estimate and if it is easy to do I will have friend do. On my old pontiac I kmow I needed a tool to install but if this is a bolt in and cut strap my friend maybe able to handle or my other buddy. I am not really hands on and handicap with 4th degree burnt hand and finger amputation and rest is 3rd degree from when I was 17 with a head on collision and the tempo kept pumping the gas after crash. So I appreciate your help and thank you very much! Just not firmilar with the 2001 Taurus SEL DOCH. All I know is it is all breaking at once LOL!! Once again thank you I am going to get it checked and see if it is easy or hard to install front struts when you folks hit me back and then will ask my friends they help for free and can't beat that of course I do hook them up but a lot less than a garage for sure! When I catch up with rpairs and if the site takes donations I will send some money for the help cuz it is greatly appreciated!! Thanx

 

Thank you for your kind words.
I believe we are here because we want to share our knowledge and help save some trouble and $$ for anyone who asks. It is a good forum and we all help when we can.

 

Paul: if one side is lower than the other check if the spring is broken. Take off the wheel and jack it up on a jack stand and stick your head underneeth. Use a jack stand do not trust a hydraulic jack!!!!!
you can change a single strut or just a spring but most likely the other side will follow soon in failing.
To get a better idea on what is needed look at some Youtube videos.



you can save dow on parts as well. Go to RockAuto.com and PartsGeek etc. but I warn you: go only with good quality parts. I bought some "Raybestos" parts thinking they a quality but in reality they are a PITA.

I like these Fords. The DOHC engine is really nice and powerful. I just tested a Fusion with this engine and I loved it. But the body is prone to rust. So in addition to check for the broken spring see if the strut tower has rust.

 

one of those two bolts on the strut should have a lopsided washer on the head of it. if you can index that bolt then you don't have to take it to a shop and have it realigned the camber on those are 0 degrees or in other words strait up and down you could use a long level and make it plumb to get the same results and save a little money

 

YFI, You can also check on prices for loaded strut assemblies on EBAY. I just purchased a set of OEM loaded strut assemblies for my 2004 Freestar from a Ford Dealership for $125 + tax & Shipping ($162.00 for the pair). Took about 2 hours in the driveway to put replace them. Pretty cut and dry replacement. Setting side-by-side, the old drivers side was about 1" shorter and the pass side about 1.5" shorter than the new ones. I replaced mine because the drivers side strut was bleading oil pretty heavily.