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2002 Ford Taurus SES repairs

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  #1  
Old 10-15-2009, 10:48 PM
questionsonaford's Avatar
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Default 2002 Ford Taurus SES repairs

So I am not a ford owner, but my GF is, she ha a 2002 ford taurus with some "personality issues" she wants to dump 5k into it, but i told her with things done right she wont have to spend nearly that much on it.

Things that are wrong

the front bumper BELOW the license plate is sheared off (she met a stop sign that didnt agree with her) and will have to be replaced entirely for a new sticker, i cut the old one off as it was just hanging under the car.

WHENEVER she parks by my house her car always drips a fluid, while i have not been able to identify exactly what it is (oil, trans, steering, brake) i think it might be the "main seal" under the front of the car, when it is parked if i reach towards the middle and run my hand along the shaft?? i can come out with a greasy hand

Whenever she starts the car it shakes real bad but only until it warms up, its throwing codes on the dash but they are always saying the same thing, cylinder one and three misfire above 1000 rpms, i think this would just be new plugs to fix this.

The door on the passenger side front opens but if you don't push the handle on the outside of the door down after you get in the lock will not catch, probably a spring or something in the handle

lastly along with the same stop sign incident she lost her ac system, you can see the pipes from it where the bumper was at one time sticking out, i have not seen any broken pipes, so maybe she just shorted a compressor or something, she gets heat but no AC

I was hoping people could have a look at this, i told her we can get a bumper for a song at the junkyard and my buddy is a professional car painter,

Any thoughts on what i should do next?

FYI pic of her car is attached, reminds me of the mad max cars lol

thanks everyone

 

Last edited by questionsonaford; 10-15-2009 at 10:50 PM.
  #2  
Old 10-21-2009, 04:05 AM
questionsonaford's Avatar
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Default FOrum About as Reliable as the car

Lol it says one thing for a ford when you read F.O.R.D. Found on the road dead, or found on roadside dump, but it says a whole entire another thing when the forum where you are supposed to find "enthusiasts" dont even take time to bother to reply to a simple thread.

Nice going ford!

lol

FYI we are fixing the car, im glad i didnt actually depend on this forum for help or advice, like the car that would have been a REAL letdown!

GM anyone!
 
  #3  
Old 10-21-2009, 10:29 AM
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Sorry,,

Seems your thread fell through the cracks..

I've built hundreds of cars that I purchased as wrecks (builders) to repair and re sell.. The body/chassis repairs aren't a huge deal especially if you can find lower cost donor parts at the local dismantler.. If it's a part/panel that they'll run on the hotline, sometimes if you try running the 'specific color' code can yeild parts that don't need topcoating either.. Sometimes you get lucky..

The oil leaks if severe enough can run up some labor time, and/or can run into 'other problems' that may be hidden, or need attention during a fix.. But not being specific in the leaks origin is kind of hard to offer up any help.. If it were a rear main than the trans needs to come out.. A sizeable job.. If a front cover seal, not as labor intensive, but still some work.. Pressure washing or steam cleaning the engine completely along with some light driving after and a 're check' can help to pinpoint a leak (or mutiple leaks!) if the the engine has built up residue over time or is coated from oil leaking/traveling on down..

The A/C could be a minor leak that over time caused the low pressure/cycling switch to cancel the compressor run.. Sometimes 'jumping' the low pressure switch first as a 'test' can not only prove out the system/circuit operation,, but can quick check for a sufficient refrigerant charge as well.. Could be a failure due to the impact that caused a massive loss since you stated it was working 'well' prior to the crash?.. Although the damage is fairly light, looking around at the A/C components including the front area/nose of the compressor, lines, condensor ect. for any escaped system oil may help pinpoint a leak, or the buildup of oil/dirt and grime can help find or locate a bleed.. More so around the front/damaged area's..

Could that the misfire is just plug related, but knowing the exact code and/or having it read before posting can help with the responses you get.. Most after maket parts houses will read the DTC's at no charge.. Also, knowing 'for sure' what type of oil was leaking may help not only with a diagnosis, but can aid in help reponses..

Adding and as much info. to the thread like the curent mileage, any previous work or repairs done and/or parts changed (like plugs ect.) can help as well.. So do more specific/closeup images taken topside/bottom side (if possible) that may better I.D the oil type, and origin.. And listing things you've already tried like lubing the door latch and/or the exterior handle but it still has to be forced down to latch the door tight (?) may narrow the options.. Or say if you're current mileage is 125K and still wearing the OEM plugs someone for sure is going to suggest a set.. If they were recently replaced or lower mileage installs, then maybe another cause for the misfire/s..

To get the best reponses, any 'hands on' time and check attempts, include any repair history, parts replaced, may help with a diagnosis, and better point as to the possible causes..
 
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