Hello, Adding to my original post below. My brother took his car to a mechanic that has all the latest tech tools and after about 4 hours of diags they say the computer is bad. Over $1000 bucks for parts and labor!!!

I believe Ford calls the computer the PCM or ECM or something like that.

This is a 2002 and although it has a lot of miles on it I don't think a computer should go bad this soon.

His wife works with a lady that has a 2002 windstar that just had the same problem. The symptoms were different but it was the computer.

Has anyone had this problem or heard of a premature failure of the pcm computer?

Wondering if there is any chance of Ford recognizing a common problem and doing the right thing and at least dropping half the charge to do this.

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My brother has a 2002 Taurus wagon. It has 145,000 miles on it. I am not sure what engine other than it is a v6.

Once it is warmed up the engine will be idling normally then nearly stall then rev back up (surge) for 1 second.
It will do this every minute or 2.
Sometimes it just stalls. It starts right back up again.
He said when driving you can feel it sort of pause and then surge so it does not seem to be a problem only when idling.

I pulled off the Idle Air Control wire and it idled very poorly so it seems to be doing its job; at least most of the time.

PVC valve has a cracked plastic piece so it was replaced but still have the same problem.

Anybody seen this or have any ideas?

Thanks.

 

I am also wondering about the 1000+ bucks to fix this. They said the module was 500 plus the 4 hours of diag they have already done.

I guess the new pcm computer needs to be uploaded with the data from the old computer or something like that?

Anyone know?

 

Hey jfh123.
I have not seen many ECMS OR PCMS fail, even with the high mileage. But i do see a VERY GOOD chance the fuel pump is on its way out. I would get a second opinion before i put the 1 grand down. Might have a sensor like the cam position sensor, witch has a TSB or two going bad. A good scan tool and sharp mechanic should be able to see this. Check your fuel pressure both with the engine off, then running. Hope this is of some help. Let us know how it goes. Good luck

 

Hate too say it . But it's the computer i had everything to fuel filter changed checked the pump and it came out being computer to the car it's self...I only have 91 thousand miles so id think mileage has a difference i think it's a default with the car

 

its the computer i think this is a default in the car i had it all checked and last was computer an I dont have high mileage 91,123 so i think it's a grand that i will pay to fix it just dont use a used one the programing doen't match up with the car,,,, so spend the money to do it right

 

Hey kjelad. This post is almost 6 years old. The problem has probably been resolved by now. Please watch the date of the post before responding. Thanks.

 

ya but now its my problem i hope this works it was my mom car now mine

 

The reason that I joined today is to let you guys know how to fix this very frustrating vehicle computer reset problem. I fought the random crazy dash lights and stalling issue for over a year on a 2003 Taurus SES. IT IS A BAD DIODE IN YOUR ALTERNATOR Trust me on this. Replace the alternator. I did not want to post until I knew 100% this was it and after 12 months with no problems I can safely say that it is 100% fixed. I hope this helps I know that some people will still be skeptical as they have fought the problem for so long but if you replace the alternator and the problem continues then you have replaced with a alternator that also has a bad diode. The Guy at the local Autozone store found it with the store tester. I had been having it tested at Advance Auto parts and their machine did not show the bad diode. I wish I had written down the tester model for you sorry. I would go to several different stores and have them test for a bad diode in your alternator!! I searched for many hours on sites like this and NEVER found the definitive answer so here you go REPLACE THE ALTERNATOR and then have it tested to make darn sure you got a good alternator. Good Luck

 

I would have to say that in the case that your ECM does not RESPOND to a DIAGNOSTIC Code Reader either the ECM is Bad or The connection to it is faulty.Also HAY WIRE CODES that neither make sense or have nothing to do with the symptom is another good sign the ECM is faulty.