You gents have my curiosity going.
If I may, what is the temp of both heater hoses? Is one hot , both hot, one hot, one cold, both cold? Need to know temp both at approx 2000 RPM and after short time idling. I have a problem believing Ford would send out a car that could end up in a cold climate and not provide reasonably warm heat. They do some unusual things, but I really don't think they would do that, although anything is possible.
Looking forward to your observations.

I think you misunderstood primem's statement. Maybe the tool might cost $200.00 but someone who has the tool could charge a lot less to drain and refill the cooling system. Let's look a little further into this and see what you find.

 

I will double check the hoses when wife gets home with car. Last time I felt the hoses they were:

* Lower Cold
* Upper Hot

This was after I ran the car on a freeway for 10 miles and it was in the service bay at Dealer.

If the cost of flushing the system and adding new coolant using the vacuum method is priced relatively good I wouldn't mind going that route at least I know the coolant was put in correctly.

 

Ok with car off the upper radiator hose is hot as hell. The lower hose is luke warm. Both hoses going to heater core are warm. Not hot but warm.

 

i think hanky wants the temps of the heater core inlet and outlet hoses not the rad hoses.

thermostat open/engine warm...with the blower motor on high a normally operating heater core should have one hot hose (inlet) and one less hot hose (outlet).

 

As previously stated, there are a few possibilities.
Air trapped in the heater core is one. It's too soon for the core to be plugged.
Some fords had a restriction in one of the heater hose fittings to reduce a gurgling sound as the coolant circulated through the heater core.
The possibility of air trapped in the syst at the time the radiator was possibly replaced.
The vacuum procedure is the preferred solution.
Another possible solution would be to remove the higher heater hose when the engine is running and releasing the trapped air that way, but accessibility is limited.
If it were me I would get one of those heater core flush gadgets that go in between the higher heater hose where accessable and use that as a vent. Some people might frown on that procedure , but it works.
I don't see any other reason for variable heat performance that hasn't already been put forth.

 

Thanks for all the feedback. This site is awesome. The heater core hoses at the firewall were both warm to touch. They both felt the same when I felt them yesterday.

I think the best and least expensive route at this point would be to have the coolant system flushed and vacumm filled with new coolant.

A local shop by my work says they have a machine that does it in about an hour. I just want to make sure everything if flushed real good including the heater core. To flush the system and replace with new coolant was $115. Is there a need to have the thermostat replaced at this time as well or just keep the original?

This will at least give me the piece of mind knowing that the coolant was flushed and installed correctly versus someone just adding coolant to the overflow tank which could have trapped air.

To bad there wasn't a air bleeder valve somewhere that could be cracked open to release any air versus having everything changed.

P.S. Until I started reading the feedback I didn't even know there was a procedure for vacumm filling coolant. Learn something everyday.

Oh well, so is having the coolant replaced and vacumm filled the route to go?

 

If you are not sure of what you are doing, by all means get it done by someone with the proper equip. Also It can't hurt to have the thermostat replaced while they are in there.

 

OK. sounds good. I will definitely have a reputable shop flush and swap the fluid out. I'll let you know how it all goes. Thanks.

 

bleed that system there is a specia tool for that this is not a big deal with a tech who knows cooling system

tomk sho11 508-533-4807

 

I would like you to try and pull down your top radiator hose below the radiator height. if hose is crimping stop put as low as you can without crimping the top hose, use plastic ties if possible. then bring engine speed up a little for a couple of minutes, if no results take it for a good ride. Make sure
all things are secure. Stop and make sure nothing has moved while you were testing the vehicle. years ago I service a fleet of ford extended vans that had trouble getting air conditioning in the rear of the van. I lowered the pressure hose and they were putting on ( overcoats )lol. good luck with your heater.

tomk 508-533-4807 you can call if you like