I have a 99 3.0 duratec that starts every time in cold weather, but based on the noises it makes it seems to take too long to get oil everywhere it needs to be. Has anybody else encountered this problem and found any potential fixes? I put the car inside the garage at night (which helps) but it sometimes has to sit outside for extended periods while I work. I thought that if I could find an oil filter with a lower by-pass setting than WIX that might help as well. Block heaters would not help during the times it sits out away from home. It just seems that it takes too long to get cold oil up to the overhead cams. I'm intersted in trying to make it last as long as possible.

 

I'm thinking out loud here, but I'm wondering if the cam synchronizer is getting ready to let go. It also drives the oil pump. Might be a good idea to check it ASAP before you lose oil pressure altogether.

 

Where is the cam synchronizer on the duratec engines?, I'm seeing conflicting info. on the web. Thank You for your help!

 

I wasn't thinking out loud enough to wake myself up . A duratec engine doesn't use a cam synchronizer. My mistake. It has a separate cam position sensor mounted on the engine head and shouldn't be involved in causing any noise or loss of oil pressure.
It would be a good idea to connect a mechanical oil press gauge to the oil press system and get an accurate reading of the oil pressure. At least you would know if low oil pressure is the problem.

 

I'll try to get a good oil pressure measurement in the near future and maybe shed some light on this. Thanks again for your help!

 

Any ideas on the best way to route the hose for an aftermarket mechanical oil pressure gauge from the engine compartment into the cabin? It looks like the heater duct opening up by the windshield would work well to get the hose up onto the dash. Anybody have a diagram of the total heater duct system?

 

Before you get involved in running the hose, have you considered a lighter grade of oil? If you for example are using 10W30 would 5W30 reduce the cold noise problem or possibly even a full synthetic oil for the winter.

 

years ago I had a Volvo 760 diesel, that motor sounded like you were shaking a steel barrel full of bolts on a cold start-up if parked overnight with the front end parked slightly uphill, it was sounding like that untill i backed out the driveway and leveled off on the street. never ever sounded that way if parked with front end down hill over night, or over the weekend even in winter. alway's kept good oil in it and right at the full mark

 

Most oil filters have an anti-drainback valve in them but not all. Do you know if the one you are using has one in it?

 

I have a Wix filter with the anti-drain back valve on it at this point. I have noticed in the past that the oil filter can make a difference, I think it was a Purolater pure one that seemed to be too restrictive and added to the problem. I use 5w-30 oil in it and have used 5w-20 in the past but went back because of some minor leaks at the oil pan. I have the hose routed as of this afternoon but still have to finish the connections and put everything back together. The oil pressure gauge will be measuring pressure at the head, I had read that the two pipe plug looking fittings on the back side of the heads are oil pressure taps, can you confirm this? Makes sense to me but I don't work with them a lot. I will experiment with the angle that the car is parked at and see if I can tell any difference. The thing so far that makes the biggest difference is putting it inside when possible, I have never known my garage to be less than freezing yet. Thanks again for everyones input!