1960 T-Bird engine

Printable Version

Ford >> Ford Cars >> Ford Thunderbird >> 1960 T-Bird engine

Page: [1] 2   next >   >>

Login Message << Older Topic   Newer Topic >>

1960 T-Bird engine - 6/19/2006 10:32:05 AM    buddyepa   Posts: 8 Score: 0 Joined: 6/19/2006 Status: offline How can one tell if the engine in a 1960 bird is a "Cleveland" engine? And why is that a good engine? Post #: 1

RE: 1960 T-Bird engine - 6/21/2006 10:29:49 PM    mstngmach   Posts: 9 Score: 0 Joined: 9/21/2005 Status: offline If its the original engine, its not a cleveland. The 351 Cleveland was not available until 1970. It is most likely a 352 FE which is the same engine family as the 390, 406, 427, & 428. (in reply to buddyepa) Post #: 2

RE: 1960 T-Bird engine - 6/22/2006 8:50:40 AM    buddyepa   Posts: 8 Score: 0 Joined: 6/19/2006 Status: offline Thank you, sir. I appreciate the info. My stepson may purchase this "square bird" this week with plans to clean it up for resale. I have no clue as to what one might be worth in fair shape. The chrome on it (bunches as you know) have been painted black, but he does not see rust under the paint. I suppose we will strip the paint to see if it is in any shape to leave unpainted. (in reply to mstngmach) Post #: 3

vac advance. - 7/17/2006 8:11:41 AM    buddyepa   Posts: 8 Score: 0 Joined: 6/19/2006 Status: offline Thanks again. I have had triuble finding just the basic info about the engine. Tune up specs would be nice if you have a suggestion as to where to find such info. I see that it has a vacuum advance pot in the distributoer. Points, rotor, condensor, cao appear new. The vac pot is not new. Since the thing seems to "bog' on take off, could it be a problem with the vac pot? Since acelerating reduces vacuum, maybe the iginition is too retarded? I guess the old "twist the distributor until something good happens" is the next step. I also favor using an old chevvy small block trick which is to ignore the initial timing specs, set the initial timing with the vac pot plugged at 8-10*, then reattach the vac pot and lower the idle mechanically to a reasonable rpm. (in reply to buddyepa) Post #: 4

RE: vac advance. - 4/1/2007 8:21:14 PM    goinstrong   Posts: 913 Score: 0 Joined: 2/24/2007 Status: offline Changing the timing is a bad idea. Just replace the vacuum advance or the distributor. (in reply to buddyepa) Post #: 5

RE: vac advance. - 4/1/2007 8:23:34 PM    goinstrong   Posts: 913 Score: 0 Joined: 2/24/2007 Status: offline By the way - timing is always set with the vacuum advance (or electronic advance) plugged (never unplugged). < Message edited by goinstrong -- 9/5/2007 7:58:21 AM > (in reply to goinstrong) Post #: 6

RE: vac advance. - 4/1/2007 9:31:04 PM    buddyepa   Posts: 8 Score: 0 Joined: 6/19/2006 Status: offline Goinstrong: Thanks for the suggestions. Even after all these months. Actually, replacing the vac pot and/or distributor without knowing what the timing is to be set at seems to be a not very good idea. Especiallly if there is nothing wrong with either. It might be best to start with setting the points, checking the timing against specs and going from there. With a timing light, you can always set it back to where it started if it all goes south. (in reply to goinstrong) Post #: 7

RE: vac advance. - 4/1/2007 10:01:50 PM    goinstrong   Posts: 913 Score: 0 Joined: 2/24/2007 Status: offline Sorry. I thought you had a timing light to know the vacuum advance wasn't operating correctly. Timing might be around 15 degrees BTC (Off the top of my head). I'm not positive though. Check timing with light (at idle (around 800-1000) and with advance plugged) then reconnect advance and rev engine. TIming should advance. If it doesn't the advance is shot. You can replace it - or (in some places where those parts are less available) you can buy the distributor with it already attached sometimes (they love to make the extra buck). If you replace the distributor you have to know what you're doing to pre-set the timing. Crank it to just before number 1 - firing (just before TDC) before removal and mark where your rotor is firing number 1. Then you'll be set up if you know what to do. A timing light is necessary no matter what - and the older type timing light works better. (in reply to buddyepa) Post #: 8

RE: vac advance. - 4/1/2007 10:07:40 PM    goinstrong   Posts: 913 Score: 0 Joined: 2/24/2007 Status: offline Not to intrude - but if you're in PA I'd be more than happy to help out. I can visually ID your engine and check parts like the vacuum advance. I only have a newer timing light but I can make it work the same most times. (in reply to goinstrong) Post #: 9

RE: vac advance. - 4/1/2007 10:34:18 PM    gcar   Posts: 16 Score: 0 Joined: 4/1/2007 Status: offline More than likely it's you accelerator pump in the carb that is causing it to bog down. Easy fix if you can find one. I wouldn't mess with advancing the timing. Try using a vacuum guage to tell you how it is running. (in reply to buddyepa) Post #: 10

Today's Posts
Most Active Topics
Make A Donation
Forum Rules & FAQ
RSS Feeds
Ford History
Mustang

Ford Prices

Ford Trucks & SUVs
F-150 Expedition
Ranger Explorer
Freestar F-Series
Explorer Sport Trac
Excursion Escape

Ford Cars
Five Hundred GT
Freestyle Mustang
Taurus Fusion
Thunderbird Focus

Top 10 Posters
hayapower 1883 goinstrong 913 techmanbd 866 94 4x4 range 834 cctxfish 735 ramrod48 608 use common s 465 wheelsup68 431 bullitt94 425 mulletman 343

New Vendors
AMSOIL - Performance Oil Technology
K&N Engineering, Inc.