fw-16 (Full Version)

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fw-16

  

dragan -> fw-16 (7/22/2005 12:56:49 PM)

The additive that is put into the coolant, fw16, has new numbers for whatever reasons that Ford gives. I would like to know some indepth info on this stuff. Supposedly it keeps the internal parts of the block from breaking down and causing engine probs. Does anyone know more about this--for 7.3 diesels. Ford says to put the fluid in every 12-20 thou as needed. But the test kit is quite expensive. Any ideas out there?

  
pakus -> RE: fw-16 (7/22/2005 1:30:44 PM)

The new number is VC-8. It basically makes the water wetter in simple terms. As a cylinder fires it causes the cylinder wall to vibrate and without the additive the coolant can bounce away from the outer side of the cylinder wall and let an air pocket or bubble form. Now this air bubble will actually bounce on the cylinder wall until it eats a hole in it all the way through. It was a real problem in the 80's and 90's but our coolant has gotten better about holding up. The new gold coolant that Ford started using in 2002 does not require any additive but the green still does. It is cheap insurance. Hope this helps.

cctxfish -> RE: fw-16 (7/22/2005 2:59:25 PM)

Wetter water,,,,,,,,,,[:D]come-on your joking right?

Sound to me that the coolant system would have to be low to start with. Then when the engine started some how air gets trapped. Isn't this VC-8 just glycol?

pakus -> RE: fw-16 (7/22/2005 3:10:20 PM)

They make a product that they sell at race shops that is actually called Wetter Water. You know how you can fill a glass of water to just over the top before it will run over, this is due to the water adhereing to the glass. This is a good thing in a cooling system to help disapate heat. The VC-8 and Wetter Water products increase the waters ability to stick thus the term wetter water. Like when you take a test tube and fill it half way up. If you look closely at the water it does not have a flat surface. It is acutually in a smiley face because it adheres to the sides of the test tube. The lowest point in the midddle of the water level is called the miniscus and the actual point of measurement when measuring in a test tube. The distance from the miniscus to the top of the water will determine its wetness. Does this make any since at all Catfish?

Ramrod48 -> RE: fw-16 (7/22/2005 9:57:35 PM)

Yea thats what they teach in school..... What were talking about is surface tension.. In my many years of bending wrenches, For a spell of about 8 yrs.( in the late 60's- early 70's ) I did Heavy Diesel Truck Repair. This has been a problem for years in Diesel's, Just now the general public with diesel motors in there cars an trucks are finding out about it, yep you get your lil test kits an adjust the PH , In the Big Rigs they have a water filter on them just like a oil filter for the coolant an every other service your suppose to add a filter thats pre- loaded with this chemical , its called a pre-charged filter, Also after a rebuild you have to install one , I've seen the top tank of the Rad. looks like a colony of termintes got to it from the bubbles popping , also some times called cavation. And it will eat at the heads an cylinder lines .

dragan -> RE: fw-16 (7/28/2005 11:27:55 PM)

O.K., So if I put in too much of the fw-16, does it affect the block in a negative way, or it being wetter water, would it go the other way and be a positive thing for the block? How would the PH factor effect be with too much of the stuff in it.

Ramrod48 -> RE: fw-16 (7/29/2005 12:39:08 AM)

Yeppers that's why they have the test kits - so you get the proper PH of the chemicals, -- whats the ole saying about - Too Much Of A Good Thing. Just Follow the Instructions an you should be fine.,,, IE you just cant run straight coolant ( antifreeze ) in your system, It has to be mixed , Hope this doesnt add to the confusion. An to be honest with you I dont Know What The Dealer is Asking for these test strips ? , So shop around go to a NAPA an get a price they will know what your talking about. If there are any Heavy Duty Truck Shops in your Area swing in there an ask for your coolant to be tested , Chances are they will do it for free. An as long as you dont have any coolant leaks 20,000 miles should be close to 2 yrs depending on your driving range .

Ramrod48 -> RE: fw-16 (7/29/2005 12:50:28 AM)

This Wetter - Water , They sell several diff brands of it at AutoZone now , One Brand is called Wetter Water, They claim it can lower your water temp by 40 degrees I Think. My son bought some awhile back an put in his car, Says it was getting a tad warm sitting at a red lite , but would drop off after he started rolling again , Asked Him if he saw any diff. ? He told me that the temp never changed .. Iam sure the stuff probaly has some merit, On the Other Hand As you well know over the years there has been all kinds of { SNAKE OIL } , { MECHANIC IN A CAN } sold to the public , add a can of this an it will rebuild your engine as you drive LOL.

RNGMSTR -> RE: fw-16 (2/9/2006 7:37:27 PM)

The redline water wetter and other similar products do not provide the SCA's the the ford product is meant to replace. Without the proper SCA level it is very possible to get hot pockets that will cause cavitation and over time will cause pits and pin holes in your cylinder walls. There are products out there that work much better than the ford product. Rmi-25 is a much better alternative, but for the best protection and no need to ever add anything, I would recomment the Evans NPG+ coolant. Both of these items are available from www.dieselsite.com They also offer a very cheap yet very good and easy to install coolant filter kit for the 7.3L. I have used there non-charged coolant filters and the Evans coolant on several trucks. You would not believe the amount of sand you will get out of your engine with the first couple of coolant filters. Sand is used in the casting process when the block is made and simply travels throughout your cooling system unless you have a coolant filter. If you do not use a coolant filter, take a close look at the small tank above the stock radiator shroud, you will see many sand particales. I would also recommend the use of the 203 degree thermostat and a aluminum housing. Both unexpensive yet very effective. The 203 degree thermostat will allow your engine to run closer to the temps that it was designed to run at and be more efficiant while doing so. These products are all availble at www.dieselsite.com I have been dealing with them for years and you will not find these products cheaper or find better customer care. Some of the products are exclusive to them and are not available anyware else.

RNGMSTR -> RE: fw-16 (8/18/2006 9:08:28 PM)

another option is to switch your cooling system over to evans waterlwss coolant npg+. It requires no additivies for 500,000 miles.

  

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