2-Issues A/C and cruise control (Full Version)

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2-Issues A/C and cruise control


  

shadybiz11 -> 2-Issues A/C and cruise control (4/22/2008 7:08:59 PM)

I have a 1994 E-150 Club Wagon.  The air conditioner doesn't seem to be taking on any freon.  The A/C compressor doesn't seem to ever come on.  What/How should I check for first?

Second issue, the driverside airbag, horn and cruise control quit working at the same time.  Does anyone know how to fix this issue?

Thanks,
Mike Mitchell


  

Hayapower -> RE: 2-Issues A/C and cruise control (4/22/2008 9:33:22 PM)

Check to see if you have 12v at 'both' wires (in/out) on the connector at low pressure/cycling switch on the reciever drier..

Sounds like the cruise, horn, and air bag issue is possibly the clockspring/sliding contact behind the steering wheel.. It's a wound 'ribbon type' circuit tape and usually with age the thin copper connections break.. Their 'rotation position sensitive' and any work done to the column or steering box if the column is allowed to turn or spin can damage the clockspring.. Usually with multiple component failures, it's usually tied to some prior work,, sometimes not..

Here's a generic pic of the low/cycling switch..

[image]local://upfiles/6756/3559EF12D17E4268A27FE8A5028AA814.gif[/image]


shadybiz11 -> RE: 2-Issues A/C and cruise control (5/19/2008 9:58:33 AM)

Rob,

Thanks, The clockspring was worn out on the steering column.

I changed the switch that you suggested on the condensor, but that didn't help the A/C issue.  The Compressor is still not engaging.  The van has 186,000 miles on it.



Hayapower -> RE: 2-Issues A/C and cruise control (5/19/2008 10:58:49 AM)

Glad the clockspring fixed the cruise, horn ect.. But that circled image was more to identify the low pressure/cycling switch to test for power distribution from the controls. 'Test' there for 12v at that connector.. First, unplugged with the A/C selected ON you should have 12v on 'one leg' of the connector,, and plugged in, you should have voltage through the switch/both legs if the switch is good and the system charge sufficient.. If you have voltage through the low pressure switch, then test for 12v in the same manor at high pressure switch (rear of the compressor) as well as the compressor plug itself for the clutch application voltage.. If your certain the system is low or empty, and the low pressure switch is open, you might try and bridge the low pressure connection to test run the compressor.. And, if your not sure of the system fill, and there's 12v at the low pressure switch, bridge the connector first and see if the system blows cold before adding and refrigerant..


  

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