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RE: 95 no start

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RE: 95 no start - 8/16/2005 2:07:47 PM

cctxfish

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Yes, but it wouldn't crank either, if water was in the cylinder. I've seen a few chebbys with this because of the (what I call) plastic intake plentum. I donna if Ford is useing them now?

how about a little more info.
explain the odd sound you here
did you check injector signal

(in reply to Ramrod48)

Post #: 11

RE: 95 no start - 8/17/2005 6:11:41 PM

billybroncojr

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Where I'm at:
I have pretty much eliminated the ignition system componants. The last thing I replaced with a known good is the module on the distributor. A section of my Hayes manual mentioned a way to check it and if there was no spark coming out the module was bad, and if there was than the ECM unit was the problem. This makes sense to me for a couple of reasons: I am getting spark and fuel, just not at the right times. The ECM controls this using input from sensors. As far as I can see they are all hooked up and nothing really looks out of place. The manual said leave the ECM to a qaulified professional, so I dub myself qualified. I have a couple on hand that were taken from the junkyard during troubleshooting my Ranger and BII's. In fact the one that was in the BII when I got it has a sticker on it that says 'Taurus/Sable 3.0 only', yet it worked for the 2.9 motor! The one other thing the Hayes manual says is that the 95 uses the newer OBD standard. This makes me wonder if I can use the older ECM. I don't want to screw anything else up by swapping this in. By the way where is the ECM on these cars? I think I found it in behind the glovebox, but don't know. That would also make some sense in that when it was spewing hot coolant some may have found it's way into the box, who knows. At any rate it should be a fairly easy swap if I want to chance the older ECM.

Still swappin,
Jeff

(in reply to cctxfish)

Post #: 12

RE: 95 no start - 8/17/2005 7:22:48 PM

Ramrod48

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well I think the old ones are 60 pin , an the NEW ones are 114 pin ?, So no they wont interchange.

(in reply to billybroncojr)

Post #: 13

RE: 95 no start - 8/17/2005 7:42:45 PM

cctxfish

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If your getting spark and fuel, and you say the engine machanical parts are in time. You suspect the spark and gas timing is off. Youd get something, want to start, backfiring, but something. So I'm not sure your going in the right direction, but here a link with some instruction R&R ECM:

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0b/fd/13/0900823d800bfd13.jsp

(in reply to Ramrod48)

Post #: 14

RE: 95 no start - 8/19/2005 4:51:05 PM

billybroncojr

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Still don't know what's up with this. The ECM that I had physically fit, so I tried it to no avail. I'm going to check compression and try and pull the valve covers this weekend to see if everything there is OK, after that I think I will send it away and let a trained professional give it a whirl.

Later,
Jeff

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Post #: 15

RE: 95 no start - 8/19/2005 5:03:17 PM

Ramrod48

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I have had this happen MANY TIMES , on the newer IGN. systems , you will get a spark as long as you hold the key in the start postion ,, However as soon as you release the key to the run postion you got nuthing.. Its the pick-up inside the Dist ,

,, You got a dist you can swap out real quick ???

(in reply to billybroncojr)

Post #: 16

RE: 95 no start - 8/20/2005 1:15:35 PM

billybroncojr

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Not a 3.0l dist. I have a Ranger with a 2.9 that most parts seem interchangable with, but I'm not sure about the dist. Any other way?

Jeff

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Post #: 17

RE: 95 no start - 8/20/2005 5:31:24 PM

Ramrod48

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Only other way would be to get a pick-up module, An replace it , They say you can do a ohms test on them , But the ones I have replaced all ways have tested ok by the ohms reading , So I dont trust that !!!!

(in reply to billybroncojr)

Post #: 18

RE: 95 no start - 11/4/2005 7:03:25 PM

billybroncojr

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Remember this one? Water pump goes out, doesn't seem to overheat, now car won't start? Well I finally got around to taking it to a certified garage, here's what they found. It seem as if the motor actually did overheat, even though the temp. gauge never went past the 'L' in normal. It damaged enough internals that there is very little compression and even though they did get it to start, it's not good. So now I have to figure out what to do with it. I don't have the money for a crate motor, I was thinking about taking the motor out of the 94, which now has 221k on it, and stuffing it in place, and probably what I will end up doing is pulling the motor and tearing it down to see just what is wrong and possible rebuilding. I've got a good idea of what to look for but if anyone has any suggestions I would appreciate it. I may not get to this until mid-Dec, but I will get to it.
Thanks again for the ideas!

Jeff

(in reply to Ramrod48)

Post #: 19