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Diffs, TB plates, sway bars and zerks
Got a few questions here so thought I'd ask them all at once.
Have a '11 Vic base model and the local shop just did an evaluation telling me all the stuff that needs looked over... 1 - REAR DIFF FLUID DIRTY - I've changed out rear diff fluid once before on my Cherokee with the Chrysler 8.25 axle. Is doing this with the Vic about the same procedure?...Take off the diff cover and catch the fluid...drain and spray out diff with brake cleaner...clean the mating surface and replace plate with new gasket, then pump new diff fluid in the hole, then plug with stopper? It's a simple procedure on the Jeep. I'm just wondering if there's any hiccups I need to be warned about before getting into it. 2 - DIRTY THROTTLE PLATE - Can I clean this using a solvent and tooth brush leaving the TB on or should I take the whole thing off to make sure nothing gets into the engine. What solvent to use? 3 - LOOSE LEFT FRONT SWAY BAR - I've got some looseness in the steering and wondering if this could be causing it. Any tricks or advice to changing this out? 4 - ZERKS - There's lots of zerks on my Jeep to be attended to every year but I'm not so sure about the Vic since I'm just getting to know the car. What zerks does the Vic have I need to be aware of and greasing? |
bump..
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...piddy bump bump
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How many miles on the clock? You could use a suction pump and evacuate the diff, but if a cover removal, it would be the same. Washing out the case, not hugely important since the axle tubes still have some lube inside, but doesn’t hurt either.. The throttle plate/body,, unless it’s collected a lot of deposits cleaning isn’t normally done. The plate is coated, and if cleaned may remove the coating. Throttle Body cleaner, soft cloth etc. if your going to do a clean up. If the coating is scrubbed away it would have to potential for easier deposits... Sway bar, links, generally won’t cause loose steering, if by loose you mean excessive slop in directional control. But,, if a sway link is bad, it should be repaired as part of the condition. If the steering is loose, I’d check the box and input for excessive play, and I’d visit the rod ends, ball joints, bushings etc. More so the ends and B joints.. I don’t remember any zerks.. |
Much gracias. 280k miles.
Been told the rear diff has a plate. Just remove, clean surfaces and reseal with Motorcraft silicon, I forget what part number. And I'll take your advice on the throttle plate. Haven't noticed any throttle sticking so I'll just leave well enough alone. |
Doesn’t have to be MC,, I’d use the gray silicones like MC, they tend to have tenacious adhesion..
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Good to know. I'd imagine the MC is more expensive and I try to save $ whenever I can
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In case you haven't addressed already, I would use a gasket over RTV. You have to have all mating surfaces perfectly clean to be effective.I just use an inexpensive oil suction gun to remove the old gear oil....After 280K miles, I would bet your throttle body could use a cleaning. Very easy when you take it off and replace the mating gasket. About an hour job. I have had lots of crud on throttle plates with much less miles than your. In addition to sticking, the engine will be somewhat slugglish once the T.B. gets gummed up.
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Thanks for the advice raski. I'm just getting into changing out the diff fluid and decided to go with a gasket like you suggest.
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