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The connector you pictured is C238. It seems to be related mostly to "Modified Vehicles". Most of the wires end inside the wiring harnesses to be pulled out by the vehicle upfitter.
The Yellow wire is power from F1.21 in the battery junction box while the Orange wire goes to the rear of the truck and is connected to the power contact on the 7 pin trailer connector.
Basically your switch bypasses the Battery Charge Relay for the trailer connector to supply battery voltage to the trailer with the key off.
I'm concerned about how this is implemented because the supply to the Battery Charge Relay is from F1.22 which means, with the switch and key both on, you could get power through both fuses (F1.21 and F1.22) thus increasing the current that needs to be drawn before the fuses blow. This could become a fire issue.
I included the wiring diagram that shows the other pins on C238 for completeness.
If you want help identifying the other connector, post pics of the connector face (for pin quantity and shape) and rear (to see wire colors).
Oh wow, thank you! I spent hours today trying to trace that wire and failed. I will get a photo of the other connector in the daytime tomorrow.
I am trying to figure out why this is wired this way:
I have 5 switches, none of them were labeled, so I had to figure out where they all go.
the two rectangle switches go to LED lights on the front, fixed broken wiring and got those working.
the three round switches:
1. The one with two black wires connected to it, one terminal goes to the grounds for each switch, the middle terminal on this switch goes to a battery isolator like this https://www.qualitymobilevideo.com/p...e&gad_source=1
The Isolator is tied into a Solar panel that is on the roof - and I am trying to understand why the switch is part of that system. This switch is only using 2 of the 3 terminals.
2. The middle round switch with the Yellow wire and Green wire is connected to an air compressor frame mounted under the truck. Yellow wire is coming from the harness you just figured out for me and the green wire is going to the pressure switch on the tank
3. the last switch with the red wire going to it also has the unplugged orange wire in this photo connected to it. The orange wire you found for me, going to the rear for the 7 way connector. So this third switch will have a tap (red wire) from the yellow wire connected to the middle switch going to the middle terminal and the orange wire is connected to the last terminal. So this last switch will give power to the trailer connector, whether key on or off? Will it still give double current flow with this wiring?
All grounds between these 3 switches are tied together.
I imagine that those are illuminated switches. The center terminal is power and the bottom terminal gets connected to the center terminal when the switch is ON. The lamp in the switch is connected between the bottom and top terminals so the top terminal is the ground for the lamp.
If that's correct, switch #1 actually has the switch lamp wired in series with the coil of the isolator. It's an unconventional method but if it works it won't hurt anything.
Apparently, the switch will turn off the isolator and open the circuit between the solar array and the battery. Since there appears to be no "real" solar panel controller, this may be a cheap way to control that connection. You'll have to figure out the real reason why.
I don't think you have any questions about switch #2 but, if you do, just ask.
The connection you mentioned for switch #3 will provide power to the trailer connector through the switch with the key off. When the key is on (or acc) the relay shown on 95-2 will close also supplying power to the trailer connector. If the switch and the relay are both on, about half of the current drawn from the trailer connector will come through F1.21 and half through F1.22. That means the current draw could be 80 Amps before one of the fuses blows. The wires will melt before that.
Do you need both functions to turn on the trailer connector? If you don't need to turn it on with the key off you could just not connect the switch. If you only need it to come on with the switch (and not automatically when the key is turned on), you could pull the relay shown on 95-2. Either of those is safe.
If you want both functions, tell me and I'll try to work out something that is safe.
Yes, they are illuminated switches. Thanks for that understanding.
There is a dual battery Solar Panel Controller on the setup actually. The cables running to it are labeled as
Solar Panel
Power Inverter
12v Battery
I have to repair broken/missing terminals that are in the photo on the solar system. I still have to test which wires are going where on that setup. Currently there is a SMH Plug next to the rear seat from the solar system and a 2nd SMH plug on the roof underneath the solar panel. Both of them are unplugged and I dont know what goes into them. The solar panel itself is connected to a differnt set of wires going to the battery/Isolator - there are 2 sets of wires above the roof. The wire labeled in the engine bay is the one coming from the 1st switch.
Per switch 3, if I just leave the orange wire unplugged, I wont have the risk of melting wires/double amp draw, the 7 way connector will still work with Key on/acc mode/engine running, did I understand that correctly? I dont need power going to the 7 way connector with key off. The only reason I could think this is on here is a previous owner wanted to run power to some accessory while camping and leave key off?
The 2 other connectors Im trying to figure out under the footwell area are pictured. One has 5 pins in a 6 pin connector, the other has 1 orange wire going to it in a 1 pin connector.
I'll take these in the order you presented:
Illuminated switches as I supposed - OK
You're going to have to do a bunch of wire tracing related to the solar panel. Obviously the Ford documents don't address that!
The solar controller appears to have connections to "Batt1" & "Batt2". Do you have dual batteries? If so, are you sure the isolator isn't to tie the two batteries together?
Switch #3 - Yes you understood correctly. Leaving the Orange wire disconnected will do exactly what you said and will be safe. I agree with your idea of why it was there. As an aside, you could use Switch #3 for some other purpose.
The 6 pin connector is related to Electronic Trailer Brake Control. Tell me if you want the relevant wiring diagrams.
The only connector I can find for the single Orange wire connector is C2190. It appears only on the 7.3L Diesel wiring diagram where it comes from the PCM and is labeled "not used". I have no idea why it is there. At another location in the drawings, it is labeled as "Driveline disconnect switch, to, Powertrain Control Module(PCM)" (the extra comma is really in the description).
I'm enjoying this quest. Let me know if you have other questions.
Glad you're enjoying this! you have made my time on the wiring hunt a much simpler process, thank you!
For the time being, Ill leave the orange wire on switch 3 un plugged, as I dont need that function, and the risk of melting wires is too much. If I ever get a setup that can use rear power without the key on, Ill revisit something at that time and like you said, I can use this switch in a different manner if needed. The other two plugs, now Im comfortable with them knowing they are not needed as well.
Will do more tracing on my solar setup and draw its layout once I know it. I do have dual batteries, and as far as I can tell, the system is only tied into the engine bay battery. The battery on the frame is not connected to the solar system, its just tied into the regular Factory Ford battery cables.
Ill update the thread with my solar diagram once I know it, to make sure I have everything set up properly. Again, thank you for your help thus far!
I was thinking about it this morning and realized that the orange wire might be for the lights in the bumper...so I investigated. It looks like the rear bumper lights are wired into that orange wire along with a black and green wire coming from the van harness, going to a relay and harness for the lights.
Orange Green Black from van 7 way harness going to relay
Orange orange coming from relay going to rear bumper lights
Then there is a single loose black wire tapped into a brown wire from the van as well that is going to a single light that is in the bumper also. I have the Aluminess bumper with light pods for rear facing lights.
Is this fine then to leave the orange wire connected? It seems like it was just used as a run to the back of the van for lighting?
On a factory dual battery setup, the battery on the frame is connected to the engine bay battery in parallel unless your aftermarket battery isolator isolates them.
From what I can tell on your pic both batteries are connected to your solar controller so I don't see why you said it's not connected to the solar system. If the solar system is connect to your primary it also connects to your secondary.
Also check Battery_System.pdf attached below for factory setup.
Anyhow the ideally is to run a custom setup to have the solar to charge both batteries when engine is off key is out. When the engine is running, your alternator is taking over and solar controller cuts off the charging to both batteries. It all depends on how robust and what your solar controller can do.
On a factory dual battery setup, the battery on the frame is connected to the engine bay battery in parallel unless your aftermarket battery isolator isolates them.
From what I can tell on your pic both batteries are connected to your solar controller so I don't see why you said it's not connected to the solar system. If the solar system is connect to your primary it also connects to your secondary.
Also check Battery_System.pdf attached below for factory setup.
Anyhow the ideally is to run a custom setup to have the solar to charge both batteries when engine is off key is out. When the engine is running, your alternator is taking over and solar controller cuts off the charging to both batteries. It all depends on how robust and what your solar controller can do.
Ah ok. That makes sense then as to what the Isolator is doing. It separates solar charging from alternator charging. Basically would flip the isolator switch off when van is running. Yes, my batteries are in parallel, so yes, youre correct, it would be connected to the solar if its connected to either battery.
What do these wires go to? 2003 e350 7.3l
