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-   -   2003 Ford Escape - Fuel Pressure Sensor?ears (https://www.fordforum.com/forum/ford-escape-19/2003-ford-escape-fuel-pressure-sensor-ears-45467/)

BrockLum 04-25-2022 03:07 PM

2003 Ford Escape - Fuel Pressure Sensor?ears
 
Hi There. New to this Forum.
I've got a 2003 Ford Escape XLS 6cyl that's been giving me troubles. Was running great but started to get lack of acceleration and no power. Then started sounding like doo-doo. Now vehicle starts and runs for 2 minutes than dies. The vehicle is on a boat access only island so getting it to a mechanic is an expensive tow and barge proposition, so I'm trying as much as I can myself. We only use vehicle once or twice a month and it sat all through winter. When we leave it we disconnect the battery - but that's created a challenge cause we're not getting any codes off the engine. It can't complete a drive cycle.
I've replaced coils, & spark plugs., Replaced fuel filter, and Tested fuel pump and checks out okay. I'm next moving to replace MAF sensor, CHT Cylinder Head sensor, and EGR valve.
So my real question is I want to replace the Fuel Pressure Sensor and the Fuel Rail Pressure sensor. I've looked all over (NAPA, Parts Avatar, Online parts stores etc ... ) and can't find one available for a 2003 model.
I went to my local Ford parts department and they tell me Ford doesn't make the sensors anymore. I can find these sensors for 2005 and later years no problem.
So I'm looking for suggestions on where else to look for these parts AND information on whether a 2005 model sensor would fit a 2003 Model ?????


raski 04-25-2022 03:44 PM

The fuel pump is not checked until an actual fuel pressure reading of the fuel system. You replaced enough and I wouldn't replace any further parts till you diagnose and isolate the problem. I would start with an actual pressure reading.The only thing that you replaced that makes any sense is the fuel filter and atleast we know that's good.

BrockLum 04-26-2022 09:22 AM

Good advice thanks. I'm definitely struggling to diagnose without readings so am throwing parts at it. It could be so many things its hard to figure out which system(s) is broken. As symptoms go, I'm focusing on the non-acceleration and eventual not running. Only a few systems present those symptoms? I'm starting with fuel but could easily be exhaust. Compression is good. Plugs and Coils were clean but replaced them anyway.

hanky 04-26-2022 09:44 AM

This might help you determine which area has a problem.

When the engine quits running, remove a spark plug or two. If they are wet or dry can tell you a lot.

If wet = loss of spark
If dry= fuel supply problem.which could include, fuel pump, fuel pump module which controls fuel pump operation.

When it quits running and you attempt to restart the engine, cranking it, does the check engine light stay on or go out ?

Has the engine been operated a while when it was not running right? If so , might have a plugged converter.

You might consider investing in a can of "Carb and Choke cleaner". It is closer to gasoline and if you spray a little in the intake and the engine starts for only 2-3 seconds . that would verify a fuel supply problem. I don't recommend starting fluid because people use too much and that can blow the tops off pistons.or damage them.

BrockLum 04-26-2022 10:33 AM

I'll definitely recheck plugs. Thanks. I removed spark plugs - weren't especially wet or dry? looked 'normal'?

I'm not getting an check engine light at all so .... similar to the lack of meter readings I'm not sure if that's cause of not going through a drive cycle or it getting to run long enough for system to reset itself?
Engine has been slowly deteriorating but in this last phase (after sitting for 5 months through winter), it died within a day. It drove maybe 2 km.?
I'm also thinking faulty converter or something along the fuel line. Which is why I'm looking for new Fuel rail pressure sensor (who's symptoms all equal what I'm going through).
The suggestion of putting a fuel gauge on it will tell a lot, The engine is starting and running for one or two minutes now, but will still try the carb cleaner.
The challenge with being on a boat access only island is that you can't just run to Napa and buy auto parts. You have to take a sea plane or a 45 boat ride to get anywhere with stores (weather depending). So I tend to overbuy parts and replace in a logical order. I make sure i can return any I don't use. It's expensive but less expensive than hiring a barge to get a tow truck onto island, barge to the closest island with a shop, then tow there. Then do the reverse to get the car back on the island.

hanky 04-26-2022 02:18 PM

Regarding the check engine light,,,It should come on when you turn the key on, I need to know if it goes out when the engine is cranking attempting to start. Yes/no ?


How far is the island from the mainland ?
How good is your backstroke ? (swimming).

Do you think my wife or the IRS would find me if I rented some space? lol

raski 04-27-2022 04:11 AM

I am not sure if you actually connected a scan tool to check for codes which should be done as I would not rely on the CEL.Sure does sound like a fuel delivery or a blocked converter. I highly doubt it's ignition. The engine likely would run even with two dead cylinders. Codes aren't always set with minor brief malfunctions and some component failures won't set anything. . If it's bad enough where the engine barely runs, a code should be set. I think your priorities are to check fuel pressure. You can safely use starting fluid just don't overdo it.I never had any problems using it.To check the converter, it would be best to disconnect it for testing or you can try removing the O2 sensor. That 3/4 inch hole may allow some flow out for test purposes. If there is an issue with the converter being plugged or melted down, that itself is a symptom of another engine problem which would need further addressing. Keep in mind, most sensors will not prevent an engine from starting, so don't go out replacing everything.

BrockLum 04-28-2022 11:18 AM

Thanks for the responses. The CEL definitely comes on when key is turned but now warning light when engine runs. I have read that a faulty Fuel Rail sensor or regulator might not put out a CEL signal. So I'm trying to get into those. As per my first posting - it seems like these have been discontinued by FORD and hard to find in aftermarkets. Wondered if anyone had suggestions on how to track down parts that are discontinued?

BrockLum 04-28-2022 11:24 AM

Our island is Decourcy Island in BC's Gulf Island region. N 49 degrees 05.895 minutes / W 123 degrees 43.907 minutes.Its a 45 minute fast boat ride up to Nanaimo which would have the closest auto shops in the region.

hanky 04-28-2022 11:35 AM

There is an little known trick with the c/e light on Fords when cranking,that is why I asked..

Now that everybody knows where this island is located,guess It's no longer a secret and my wife can find me to give me another job. lol


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