Ford Escape 2007 A/C reads red in gauge, loud metal sound
 

Hi guys I have had a problem for over a year with my A/C it really doesn't work great anymore unless I am driving 60mph or more and city driving sucks its pretty hot, but recently with the heat waves it is getting worse it seems like. I have bought two cans of A/C pro to use the gauge and they always read in the red with the proper settings, max a/c on high and coldest setting. I had my A/C replaced by a friend a few years ago and it worked great for about a year then it developed this problem. I am not sure of the brand my compressor is. I have 210k miles on my suv, I have done most of my own repairs in the past and saved $1000's... I could not find my clutch, I looked at everything spinning inside and never saw anything stopped when I turned it off/on.... From my research I need to replace it soon or it will explode(bushing/bearing) and cause more problems.... ?????

From what I can gather you might get ready for some expensive repairs and from what you describe the entire system is in line for , opening, flushing, compressor and dryer replacement and hopefully it stops there. You will no doubt get some addl advice because it sounds like the system is ready to go south on you.

What all was done when you had your "A/C replaced"? Need to know what was performed and replaced. That would determine why your system is failing again and what all you will need to do this time.

Since the compressor was replaced, I would suspect that it dies due to "BLACK DEATH" syndrome. What should have happened at that time was replacement of the condenser as they are "Non-Flushable: units due to their capillary design. They just hold the crap from the failed compressor and release it later when the system is running again. The fixed orifice should have been replaced when the compressor was replaced as the screen would have also captured debris from the compressor also. The same with the rear screen if you have rear A/C. Along with the previously mentioned items, the lines and evaporator (s) should have been flushed and the accumulator/dryer replaced.

Without replacing these items, you will eventually starve the new compressor of oil as it flows thru the system with the refrigerant and thus eventually killing the replacement compressor.

Do you have rear A/C?

Moth places just throw a new compressor at an A/C system and it will normally run just long enough to get it past any warranty.

My 2003 Escape had an ac problem as well. I put on the gauges and they were all over the place. I removed the RH inner wheel well liner to get a look at the compressor. What I found was the actual clutch self destructing. It also bent the compressor shaft which was internally mutilating the compressor. I replaced the compressor, clutch assy, orifice tube and receiver/drier. I also completely flushed out the system prior to installation. It was making bad noises and worked intermittently, but not well. Unfortunately, this is what it took to repair it. I got all my parts from Rock Auto and saved a lot over retail. Now, its quite frosty. Just my experience.

If it needs a new compressor, then you will need to have the above items I mentioned replaced and the remaining system flushed. If any lines have mufflers in them, they also need replaced as they also are NON-FLUSHABLE item and retain crud from the failed compressor that will not flush out unless the person doing the system uses a "LIVE" flush system to flush your system out.

If not, then you will be right back where you are in short order.

Your call on how your A/C gets repaired and how long it will last.

Luckily enough, NO mufflers in the lines. Before I connected up ANY new parts, I flushed the entire system with ZEP ID Red and did it with a filtered flushing system I made from a transfer pump powered by a drill. There was no metal in the filter when I was done, but a lot of black mung. When it was flowing clear and clean, I purged the system with dry shop air for 30 min. to make sure all the solvent had evaporated. And then....I installed all the new parts. I evacuated for a good 30 min. as well and leak checked for another 30 min. It took the oil charge and R-134 before I started it up and it took the last ounces of R-134. It was blowing approx. 45°F out the vents on a 90°F+ day. Haven't had an issue since. It is imperative it's done right the first time. If there was Black Death...FLUSH!!!! Always change the receiver/drier & orifice tube as well. If not, it may not work very well and WILL contaminate the new/overhauled compressor. ;)