I’m in the process of replacing my ball joints. Unfortunately I’m at a stopping point because my axle shaft will not come out. I pull and pull and it won’t move. I’ve ‘tapped’ it a couple times from the back with a hammer and still nothing. Am I missing something?? Any tricks? All the videos I watch it looks like they just slide out.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d3.../AxleShaft.jpg

 

The large hub seal sometimes hangs in the spindle bore, plus, the inner axle seal (in the diff. housing) is a pinch fit.. Take a pinch/pry bar and get behind the axle ujoint and housing and give it some good leverage.

I've done a ton of these, and have a few cautions along the way if needed..

 

So if I get the axle shaft out. Will it be that hard to put it back in as well?

 

Not usually.

But it is set to a specific depth, and it needs to be installed straight into the spindle bore..

Before you pull the axle, take a measurement from the lip portion of the seals outer edge and then to the spindles flat face. We have a installer tool that sets the seal and axle to the correct depth into the spindle. You'll need to improvise there, but don't drive or hammer against the metal face of the seal or against the axle nose. If large vacuum seal was to be damaged, may require doing the job over..

Also, Usually the small dust seal on the axle (between the axle u joint and the axle tube) are ripped, coming apart or just tumbling around the axle. In almost every case they should be replaced. They have a high failure rate, and even if they look ok, chances are they'll fail soon if they haven't been replaced before. They help keep debris, dirt, and water from entering the axle tube/s. If they are already failed, make sure the axle tube is cleaned, otherwise when re installing the axle, the splined area can pick up dirt etc, and push into the inner seal pinch area.

Being ESOF, and if a higher mileage truck, it's a good practice to replace the large hub seal too. There's a driver for installing them as well on the axle hub manually, but I like to press them on, less chance of damaging the seal, their a pretty tight pinch fit and not cheap..

When you get ready to tighten the ball joint nuts, be sure to torque them to spec.. If overtightened, they can pinch/bind the ball joints and make for hard turning of the spindles. When/if this happens, it causes a noticeable wander in the steering trying to correct for tight joints..

 

Thank you for all the info in your post, it's very helpful. I got the axle shaft out. But it was after I read your post about it needing to be a specific depth so I didn't take a measurement. You wouldn't know what the depth is for that would you?
Also, I installed new ball joints. But when tightening then up to the specified torque (70 ft. lbs upper, 150 ft. lbs lower), the spindle is much harder to move. It's almost to hard to move with one hand. Is that to tight? I don't want to loosen the nuts because they would be to loose.

 

They should be snug to rotate..

Final torques are correct.. The lowers should be pre torqued to 47lbs,, then, tighten the upper to 69lbs, next, final torque the lower to 150lbs.

Some of the aftermarket BJ's have been a problem with some binding. They usually will eventually free up with some miles unless excessively tight.

The seal depth is right about 1 3/16-1 1/4 .. Setting the seal straight and to depth, makes installing the axle/hub easier, and the outer axle snap ring groove then is in alignment to install. After the wheel hub goes back on, if the snap ring groove is only partially exposed, gently pry on the back of the axle u joint to expose the complete groove..