1983 ford f150 crank but no start
 

I have a 1983 ford f150 5.8 with duraspark 3 with eeciii system. ive replaced distributor, cap, rotor, starter silenoid, ignition control module, voltage regulator, alternter, sparks plugs, ignition coil. and it still wont turn over, its cranks good but just wont turn all the way over.
the alternator did test bad at auto zone. can anyone help me out i cant figure out what else it could be, ALSO the california emmisions has been removed I bought the truck a few months ago and dont know any of its backstory.

Did you check for spark and fuel?

Carburetor === yes===no?

yes, their is spark, yes to fuel, and yes carb.
also when i turn the key it goes straight to start position, their is no just run position.

Seems to me there is a problem with the ignition switch or the connecting gear in the column has broken, which is a fairly common problem.However as you describe it I would think the engine should try to run briefly in the start position.

What appears to be happening with the column as you release the key from the start postion?

its a brand new ignition switch as well

Thank you for being honest and up front. I say this because there may be something wrong with the replacement key tumbler section, which is not difficult to install incorrectly.

Did you replace the key tumbler or the ign switch contacts on the lower part of the steering column.?

i replaced the tumbler, Ill look at it again though forsure.

This is not complicated, you just need to know what you are looking at and looking for..

The straight tooth portion at the top of the steering column is called the rack.
That rack has a rod that engages with the ignition switch assy attached to the lower part of the steering column. The switch on some is slotted and adjustable .
If for some reason the rack gets mispositioned with the tumbler you can loosen the mounting screws holding the switch assy and move it to be in the correct position for on, start and run, etc.There is usually enough room to position the switch to do this. If it is beyond correcting there are 2 options. One is to replace the steering column with a usable salvage yard unit or remove the column assy and open it up and do what ever needs to be done to realign the rack and related parts. Most shops don't care to spend the time to repair the column so they just replace it. If you have no choice but to open it up and realign the parts, it is not difficult, you just need to be careful , make notes of everything you see and move and you could be home free.

I have a 5.0 california f-150 from 1983 and let me tell ya, it ain't easy. Wires will get frayed and cause electrical issues, or a slightly sticking ignition switch will burn an ignition module (or 2) . You gotta do some research and figure stuff out for yourself mainly.

i will say this, the first thing to understand is the ignition system on your vehicle. Eec 3 means there is no vaccume advance, but rather the advance is based on the several engine sensors. However since yours are not only removed but also the key has no run position, I can only assume that someone has hackwired your sh*t 6 different ways til Sunday.

You potentially will need aftermarket ignition and advance. Especially if there are no emissions crap left. They sell a whole distributor with the module on top and vaccuum on bottom, although you would need to shop around and see what sized distributor that motor has so they match up. Also check for steel vs iron gear, although I am fairy certain Ford only put steel gears in later model trucks and also into roller lifter type mustangs.


(search 'msd ford')

Helpful video

haynes repair manual also goes a long way

Yes it has oil in it and I can turn the engine by hand. I had to do it trying to set the timing after changing the oil pump. Noone was outside when it stopped working.