E4OD 4th gear start issues
#1
E4OD 4th gear start issues
Would like some help in diagnosing 4th gear start on 1994 F150 4x4 withE4OD transmission. I have replaced solenoid pack, both wire harnesses, MLPS and relay. All help will be appreciated.
#3
One code 654 Not in Park. Shifts fine manually 1,2,D. OD light does not function and not blinking.
#4
Gererally a high range start like 4th is related to shift solenoid SS1 always OFF, or mechanically stuck, or a harness/connector issue, possibly PCM but normally no. But a pinpoint connector check for PCM, control/application may help rule out drop out, internals etc.
Any missing or inaccurate speed input can cause long extended out shifts/shift scheduling issues, harsh or forced shifting. But should be a normal start out pattern.
OD light not working was fairly common for the harness to chaff at the shifter root and short to the column base, or, the switch itself. But with no button control, I'd suspect the harness, and then on down..
Any missing or inaccurate speed input can cause long extended out shifts/shift scheduling issues, harsh or forced shifting. But should be a normal start out pattern.
OD light not working was fairly common for the harness to chaff at the shifter root and short to the column base, or, the switch itself. But with no button control, I'd suspect the harness, and then on down..
Last edited by Hayapower; 10-17-2017 at 10:03 AM.
#5
Gererally a high range start like 4th is related to shift solenoid SS1 always OFF, or mechanically stuck, or a harness/connector issue, possibly PCM but normally no. But a pinpoint connector check for PCM, control/application may help rule out drop out, internals etc.
Any missing or inaccurate speed input can cause long extended out shifts/shift scheduling issues, harsh or forced shifting. But should be a normal start out pattern.
OD light not working was fairly common for the harness to chaff at the shifter root and short to the column base, or, the switch itself. But with no button control, I'd suspect the harness, and then on down..
Any missing or inaccurate speed input can cause long extended out shifts/shift scheduling issues, harsh or forced shifting. But should be a normal start out pattern.
OD light not working was fairly common for the harness to chaff at the shifter root and short to the column base, or, the switch itself. But with no button control, I'd suspect the harness, and then on down..
Truck shifts fine through all gears when manually shifted. OD button lights up and off when pressed. Noticed that if passed D and went into 2 that's when it would start the issue of starting in 4th. Would fix itself while driving or at a stop. One day I passed D and went into 2(sloppy ol' truck!) and haven't been able to get it to get itself straight. When I installed the new solenoid pack I thought I had pushed plug in all they way but didn't which resulted to no 1st and hard shifts and engagement of reverse. Pressed plug all the way in and no better results. Thanks for all you help on this matter. About to loose my mind and maybe checking account!!!
#6
Had the wrong application image posted, always OFF is there..
The solenoids are always relay energized with the PCM in control of specific solenoid grounding for applications. Might check to see if SS1 is being grounded,, Orange/yellow-pin 3 in the trans connector.
SS2 is P/O for ground control..
The solenoids are always relay energized with the PCM in control of specific solenoid grounding for applications. Might check to see if SS1 is being grounded,, Orange/yellow-pin 3 in the trans connector.
SS2 is P/O for ground control..
#7
Had the wrong application image posted, always OFF is there..
The solenoids are always relay energized with the PCM in control of specific solenoid grounding for applications. Might check to see if SS1 is being grounded,, Orange/yellow-pin 3 in the trans connector.
SS2 is P/O for ground control..
The solenoids are always relay energized with the PCM in control of specific solenoid grounding for applications. Might check to see if SS1 is being grounded,, Orange/yellow-pin 3 in the trans connector.
SS2 is P/O for ground control..
#9
If you have a DVOM you can pin probe the trans connector, or a disconnect test on the pins should yield the same results.
The Red wire on Pin #1 is 12v + into the solenoid pack Hot in Start/Run. Pin #3 is the ground - provided by the PCM dependent on the MLPS position/selection.
With the meters positive lead on the Pin #1 RED, and the meters negative lead on Pin #3 O/Y (orange/yellow) the meter should read current battery voltage with the key ON, and trans range/shifter in OD.
The Red wire on Pin #1 is 12v + into the solenoid pack Hot in Start/Run. Pin #3 is the ground - provided by the PCM dependent on the MLPS position/selection.
With the meters positive lead on the Pin #1 RED, and the meters negative lead on Pin #3 O/Y (orange/yellow) the meter should read current battery voltage with the key ON, and trans range/shifter in OD.
#10
If you have a DVOM you can pin probe the trans connector, or a disconnect test on the pins should yield the same results.
The Red wire on Pin #1 is 12v + into the solenoid pack Hot in Start/Run. Pin #3 is the ground - provided by the PCM dependent on the MLPS position/selection.
With the meters positive lead on the Pin #1 RED, and the meters negative lead on Pin #3 O/Y (orange/yellow) the meter should read current battery voltage with the key ON, and trans range/shifter in OD.
The Red wire on Pin #1 is 12v + into the solenoid pack Hot in Start/Run. Pin #3 is the ground - provided by the PCM dependent on the MLPS position/selection.
With the meters positive lead on the Pin #1 RED, and the meters negative lead on Pin #3 O/Y (orange/yellow) the meter should read current battery voltage with the key ON, and trans range/shifter in OD.