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-   -   2002 5.4L head removal (https://www.fordforum.com/forum/ford-f-250-ford-f-350-15/2002-5-4l-head-removal-29228/)

Tony69 Feb 22, 2013 07:17 PM

2002 5.4L head removal
 
Can anyone help with info for cylinder head removal/installation? Are there tech manuals available that describe the procedure, specify torque values and sequences? Is it possible to re-tap a spark plug hole without removing the head?

hanky Feb 23, 2013 02:38 AM

Yes !
What did you do ?

Tony69 Feb 23, 2013 05:45 PM

The spark plugs keep blowing out and this time the damage was severe enough to prevent me from getting a thread chaser started. Not to mention, one plug that has not been changed due to foreign debris in the spark plug well preventing the installation of a socket.

Just got news of a guy with a thread cutting kit and I will start with the least expensive approach, to try and prevent myself from having to take the heads off. The other plug, I was thinking of trying to break the ceramic and get whatever is down there out, vacuum, and then remove the plug.

Do you know of any technical manuals that cover the head removal in detail?

Thank you for your time.

Tony

hanky Feb 23, 2013 06:10 PM

Tony it's not necessary to replace the head to correct this problem. There are some pretty good alternatives if you google "Spark Plug Thread Repair on Ford 5.4 engines"
It is recommended to remove the plugs when the engine is cold. Just slightly loosen the plug maybe i/8 turn shoot a small squirt of carb and choke cleaner into the spark plug hole and let the plug(s) sit overnight. They usually will come out easier that way.

Tony69 Feb 27, 2013 10:02 PM

Mr. Hanky,
No luck so far. I tried an M14x1.25 tap but it does not appear to be engaging or cutting threads. Also tried a thread chaser but that just seemed to sit on top of the hole and spin. Will try again tomorrow. If stripped, can a heli-coil be installed?
Tony

Hayapower Feb 27, 2013 10:32 PM

Threads come out with the plug/s when ejected?

The thread repair is a 'time sert' style insert meaning a barrel threaded sleeve. Trying to work a Heli in would be tough.. The thread repair kits can be had now for about 200.00 or so, that come with inserts and the tools to set the insert..

Tony69 Mar 1, 2013 06:29 PM

The threads are stripped. Why would installing a heli coil be difficult? The best price I found on a thread repair kit is around $200 like you said. At this point, I think the thread repair kit might be my best option.

Any ideas about getting a plug out that has a piece of wedged-in debris, preventing me from installing a socket? I was thinking of leveraging the plug to break the ceramic, remove the broken pieces and the original debris, then use the socket on the remaining hex portion of the plug.

Thanks for your time.

Tony

Hayapower Mar 1, 2013 09:24 PM

It may depend on which cylinder/s your working on and what you mean by Heli Coil

The more important reason is,, the spark plugs have a beveled seat to seal against the matching bevel in the head, and a standard Heli coil although would potentially work and seal to a degree, would remove most of the seal area. Most standard Heli's require drilling, not sure if they supply a pilot reamer/cutter for a standard coil for plug repair..

There are small kits (even Heli) that have a pilot reamer/cutter and full inserts, not coil type material that will do gasketed and bevel plugs pretty cheap. The problem with universal low cost kits, and not that they wouldn't work, is if you not successful doing the install, you very well may be pulling the head/s.

The Time sert type insert has the seal bevel cut into it, and is shouldered usually with a serrated top edge that locks the insert to the head material. Thread locker to make the insert permanent. Or close to ;) The time sert types install and dead heads to the correct depth.

If you were talking about a standard Heli coil, the problems would be,, you'd need to drill'n tap (pilot reamer/cutter doesn't require drilling) for the coil insert, then, install the insert on the tool and the started (with install tension) and rotated to the optimal depth. Removing/installing the insert tool to keep checking depth can sometimes get you in trouble (especially the cheap plastic tool). If it 'binds' or stops at any point and you can't get it to install where you need it,,,, you'd then be trying to uncoil the inset blind in the plug well.. Then the rotating 'tab' on the coil needs to be broken off which would send it into the cylinder.

I'm guessing you weren't talking standard coil types, but thought I'd throw it in just in case..

With debris around the plug,, try using a long narrow screwdriver, a pick, or narrowed pin punch etc. and try and break up the trash around the plug base, use plenty of compressed air to blow the bits up and out of the plug well.....

Tony69 Mar 21, 2013 05:39 PM

Sorry for the delay. Finally got it done. Bought a Lisle thread insert kit. Found a rock (pebble) stuck down inside the other well. Thank you and Hanky for your time and advice.

Hayapower Mar 21, 2013 08:49 PM

Glad you got it done, and thanks for the update..


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