F250 6.0 crank no start
 

So I have a 2003 f250 6.0 just had the motor rebuilt, new turbo heads, pistons, gaskets, injectors, glow plugs, you name it, and the thing ran fantastic no issues. Now the problem I put new batteries in and I was getting ready to leave a restaurant And All my gauges went crazy and started jumping back and fourth, than it stopped I drove it home parked it and when I came out the next morning it would crank over but wouldn't start.. I had the hpop rebuilt when I had the motor done, haven't had a chance to check the oil pressure.. just found it weird that the gauges went crazy and than ran until I turned it off... Any help would be appreciated.

I would suspect you did something not right momentarily when connecting the replacement batteries.

Always a good idea to start with checking all the fuses.


Some vehicles have a protection in the vehicle to prevent damage to the vehicle computer when connections get reversed when connecting battery cables.
Still,,,,,, check all the fuses. Easily done with a test light.
You can do the same check with a voltmeter, but if not sure , test light is easy.

Would sure be nice to check for codes if you can.

I will copy and paste a good post below from another forum (I use the inexpensive BAFX OBDII adapter - saving for the MX+):

Gonna own a diesel, you need to be able to get codes and monitor the system when there is a problem.

I suggest downloading ForScan (full version for a laptop) or ForScan Lite (for a smartphone) ..... and using the OBDLink MX+ or the BAFX adapter for troubleshooting 6.0L engine problems. The smartphone downloads are $6 or so.

Torque Pro would be good for everyday use with an old phone or tablet -- can be mounted on the dash.

Scan Gauge is small and simple -- can be mounted in front of the instrument cluster. Scangauge is a POOR code reader, troubleshooting requires a GOOD code reader!!!

There are other monitor solutions, but the price goes higher (SCT, Edge). It should be noted that the more expensive options do NOT scan codes any better than ForScan, and they are not able to perform any more diagnostic tests than ForScan.

ForScan is a simple download for PC, you can get it in just a few minutes -- the "lite" version is available on the app stores for your device.
There is a "demo" in the app options, so you can use the app without being connected, to get familiar with the screens.

The PC version is the most powerful and does the injector "click test" among other tests, like commanding the VGT actuator.
You do not need the license for troubleshooting - only for advanced programming.

The BAFX adapter is the least expensive ($35 or so) and a reliable adapter -- compare it to the MX+, which is smaller, faster and more features (around $140).
BAFX adapters (do not use their software, if they come with it).
WiFi for iOs
BlueTooth for Android

The PC version is the most powerful and does the "click test" and other tests - you do not need the license for troubleshooting, only for advanced programming:
Download FORScan
https://forscan.org/home.html

For the Windows laptop, you should buy the OBDII to USB adapter (OBDLink EX).
https://www.obdlink.com/products/obdlink-ex

OBDLink MX+ for iOS, OR for Android:
OBDLink® MX+ - Outstanding Bluetooth-Compatible OBD II Scan Tool
The OBDLink® MX+ is the top-of-the-line OBD II scan tool to use with forscan and comes with bluetooth. Get one here today and gain access to your vehicle!
https://www.obdlink.com/products/obdlink-mxp

BAFX WiFi for iOs
or (VGate VLinker FD+ for iOs)

BAFX Bluetooth for Android
or (VGate VLinker FD for Android)

Sorry I meant to put a picture of what my current codes are I have a snap on reader just forgot to post pictures
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...123e8388d9.jpg
Ps EGR was deleted so those codes aren't there anymore.

P1397 is a code for a battery voltage issue, so I would say Hanky's advice is spot on (as usual).

Could also be an issue w/ the alternator.

The P0100 code only tells us the power (battery) to the system was disconnected.

The other 2 codes are trying to tell us there is/was a voltage problem within the system.
They could have been from when you found the need to replace the batteries.
The symptoms you described should be noted , the codes cleared and see if any return.
If they do , we know further checking is required.
Electronic components don't take very well to voltage spikes , especially if the polarity was reversed. Not knowing the entire story, I believed to cover the possibility, check all fuses.
To your knowledge did anything like this maybe happen?