Hey folks,
New to the forum, and I'm trying to get the front spindles off of my Dana 60. The truck's a '96 F350 Crew SRW with a 460 and 136k miles, set up for plowing. The front cross joints are showing slack, and I'm trying to replace them. The spindles are so stuck on that even using the threaded tool with a large slide hammer they won't budge[:@]. Before you ask, yes, I've removed the nuts that retain them, and there isn't anything else holding them on. The cross joints are original (I assume since they still say Spicer on them). I've been using lots of rust penetrant, both before and after trying the slide hammer. Anyone had success with any other methods? I'm thinking heat with the Mapp gas torch is next (with the fire extinguisher handy, of course).The snow is starting to come down and it'd really be handy to have my plow on-line before it piles up.

 

I DON'T THINK MAPP GAS WILL BE HOT ENOUGH U WILL PROBALBY HAVE TO USE AN Acetylene TORCH TO GET ENOUGH HEAT

 

But what about warpage[:'(]- The flanges are 1/4" thick, but the spindle wall thickness is nowhere near that much.

 

U JUST NEED TO HEAT WHERE THE SPINDLES ATTACH

 

[sm=badbadbad.gif] I guess firing it up is going to be the next try then.---

 

HOW DID U COME OUT ON PROBLEM

 

They still haven't come off[:@] Mapp gas torch isn't enough, the studs are popped out now, so they aren't the source of the problem, I've been soaking athem s much as possible in penetrant, and am bringing the Acetylene torch up on Friday. I'll flash off the penetrant first with the mapp torch, of course. I've also got a line on an air chisel (to use from the side of the flange to shock it). I've also (maybe) got an ace in the hole--I work with cryogens (really cold fluids) and am going to relieve some of it's earthly bounds- trying to use the CTE differential to break it free. I'll keep you posted, this is really frustrating.[:'(]

 

Generally using a large brass mallet or a good size hammer (BFH) with a piece of hard wood or soft metal and striking the spindle between the bearing points will break it loose (to a degree)..You should start see the spindleseperate slightly, then install a wedge in between the gap, then strike it from the other side repeating the 'walk' or rocking motion until the spindle comes free.. Some are pretty stuborn, but the 'shock' and leverage affect will usually get it loose..

 

O.K., another option. This weekend Somethin's goin to give up-It might be me, but I don't give up easily.Thanks to all, I'll catch you up on Monday.