No Power To Fuses 8, 12, 13, 14, 16, 17 (under dash)
 

Hi there. I have 07 500 SEL. I have no power to under dash fuses 8, 12, 13, 14, 16, 17 in all lock cylinder positions. Sure could use some input.

Thanks.

Can you tell us what happened to get you to this point?

Sure. Battery is 2 years old and up until a week ago I did not realize the negative terminal and was snug but not tight. Now it is tight however the cable to terminal connections are not 100% which I am taking care of this afternoon. With that said A week ago I gave someone a jumpstart. About three minutes later I was home and shut the car off. No relearn. The next morning I noticed when starting the car the crank was a bit weak and long. After work that night the crank was weaker and longer but still started. I threw it on the charger or that night and started up the next morning and same thing weak long crank but still started. That night after work I noticed the stereo was trying to eject a CD. The accessory delay I believe did not shut stereo down. Threw it on the charger again. Started it up voltage across terminals with car running was 13.6 shut the car off let it sit in voltage was 10.4. Car with still start week long crank. Took it to AutoZone had him test the battery. He tested it with the terminals on and car off. Test came back bad battery and no more info from him. Not convinced. This brings me to two nights ago....i disconnected terminals and hooked charger directly to posts and gave slow but not trickle charge for about 6 hours overnight. In the morning charger indicated charge complete. Started car slow weak crank. So last night did long slow charge I guess over about 12 hours with terminals hooked up to posts. Also went through the power distribution box and the smart junction box. Under the hood all fuses were good and all four relays clicked and had continuity across the load circuits . And under the dash as the original post stated no power to fuses 8 12 13 14 16 and 17 regardless of lock cylinder position . I took a closer look at the relays and found that number 50 PCM relay had 1/10 greater resistance across the coil then the other three relays. So I swapped relays. This morning charger indicated bad battery. Took it off the charger started up but seems maybe not as weak not as long. I went somewhere and when I restarted it the crank was better. When I got home check voltage across the terminals with car running is 13 something shut the car off let it sit voltage 12.6 and started like a champ for first time. And this is when i posted the original thread. Unfortunately several hours later voltage is back down to ten something. Ugh. (Did not address the negative cable to terminal connections) And I need to add.....Right about the same time I gave that jump start I replaced the transaxle roll restricter bushing. Couple days later when I went to Autozone I seen that I left the brake aspirator hose disconnected from air cleaner outlet. And I knicked the insulation on the mass airflow electrical connector. When I say knick i mean two wires and can see a pin head of copper peaking thru the insulation on each wire. One wire is gray and the other is grey with red.And despite no power to those fuses. I do have reverse light, radio sound works and defrost indicater works. Thank you.

There is a good possibility there is more than one problem.
The first thing I would suggest is to do a voltage drop check of both of the battery cables and if there is any doubt, replace them ! In the process of doing that you will need to remove them and reattach the replacements to clean connections.
Something you should be aware of and that is to , NEVER, have the ignition of your vehicle on when hooking up any jumper cables to another vehicle . Also, the ignition should NEVER be on when removing the jumper cables. If so, the created voltage spikes can wipe out the PCM in your vehicle !
Just because the battery is only 2 years old , does not mean it can't be defective.
Is the stereo an add on ? Fords do not like add on appliances and will let you know maybe not immediately, but some time later.
If it is an add on , you might try disconnecting it from the system and see what you get . Unauthorized add on stuff can and does cause all sorts of electrical problems from no starts to performance problems.
So we take things one at a time, let us know if the info applied and was any help, thanks.

Thank you for your reply. After addressing the negative terminal end I attempted a charge last night and it came back bad this morning. Im replacing battery and cables today. What I didnt mention is the day after jumpstarting that other vehicle I realized the negative terminal was cracked. And yes, I did take cables off with my 500 running.
No, stereo is factory. Nothing is add-on.

No add on stuff, great !
Let us know how you make out after you install a "charged" battery and quality cables.
There are a few things a lot of folks are not aware of and one of them is the wire from the alternator is not intended to function as a battery heavy load charger. It is only intended to carry the current used by the accessories when the engine is running. Trying to charge a low battery that will accept a high current flow most times exceeds the current carrying ability of the wire from the alt to the battery. The alt may be rated to put out 100+ amps, but the wire is only rated for maybe 60 amps and can carry that for a short time usually after starting the vehicle. Changing the battery and cables should take care of some of the problems.

Im from a small town so I was unable to get my hands on a set of cables. Battery is in. Reload done. Voltage- running and off is great. Fuses are as originally posted.
The hose that comes of the upper radiator hose and goes to the throttle body seems to get preettty warm. .??
Thanks

(Sorry for the delay..my reply last night didn't post for some reason)

Meant to say RELEARN not RELOAD in above.