Battery drain, killing me
 

Ok we just bought a 2010 Ford Fusion for my daughter.
battery dead, replaced.
battery dead after 3 days.
I am MECP Certified Car Audio Electronics tech.
checked alternator voltage out, OK.
inline ampmeter diagnostic, amps upon shutting door and locking with key fob.
.5 amps, after couple minutes some module shuts down, amps dropped to .17-.19amps, after 5 min. another module shuts down, current now at .01amps(10 milliamps).
This should be fine. 10 milliamps.
The only thing I can think of is alternator has a dead spot and if resting at this spot at shut down drains battery. Also intermittent sticking relay, then with the 3 times i have tested was not stuck.
Or there is a sleeping module that is being woken up.
If i knew of a cheap amperage reading device that had long term data logging or PC logging interface that would help.

I have seen a posts with this issue when these cars were new, in where the dealer could not find the problem, and a FORD engineer was flown out, there was not a recap on what was found.

Any suggestions?
:confused:
Thanks guys CHEERS!

That sounds like an absolute nightmare. If you can send me your VIN number I would be happy to check it for TSB's relating to this problem.

Thanks i will get it when i get home and send it to you.

Jreeves16 ,
Yep, that sounds about right, they're still looking for the engineer, nowhere to be found.
Just kidding, but generally 50 milliamps is an accepted figure for everything off , parasitic drain.
If the vehicle coded key is in the range detection area it will wake the modules to prepare for operation. As an electronics specialist this should be right up your alley. Something you can try is to make sure the keys are far enough away from the vehicle when parked and sitting. Also there is always the remote possibility of another vehicles key causing the same problem.
Can you use your meter set to min/max and leave it connected after everything shuts down to see if that is what is happening? What do you think?

I have been out of the mobile electronics field for a few years( mechanical engineer now), but upon programming hundreds of remote starts to coded keys the range is extremely low usually less than a meter. this car is only one year older than the last cars I worked on in the past.
Setting the meter would be good, if mine has a min max for amps, but time frame would be even better, I am trying to find something for logging, its so simple someone has to have a cheap PC, USB logging meter.

the stereo was dead when we bought it, after removing it i found a penny inside, makes me wonder with CAN BUS running through everything, if it damaged another module. Even with the stereo unplugged when i press a number on the faceplate, a module awakens(.5 amps). this POS does have SYNC.
Stereo face plate/controls and stereo are separate. Luckily it isnt factory amplified or subwoofer so that takes that out of the equation.

If all else fails I can attach my meter, and rig up a webcam at the display, and setup a low quality possible time lapsed recording overnight. what a bunch of crap. but I know if i take it to the dealer it will cost hundreds and they will find nothing. In mobile electronics dealers would bring us extremely difficult electrical problems, that leaves me SOL, haha

Well i found a data logger last night for $100, not bad. it has USB and bluetooth to my ipad or Android device or Windows PC. Ill put that thing to work next weekend and try to figure this POS out.

In the mean time ill get that VIN.

That is awesome. Hopefully this thing can be figured out.

here is VIN, see what you can find.
VIN: 3fahp0ha2ar326854

Thanks CHEERS!

This is the only bit of information. I was able to find and it does not go in depth regarding the symptoms.


SSM 44966 - 2010 - 2012 Fusion, Milan, and MKZ Vehicles - Positive Battery Cable Lower Level Service Part Availability


For 2010-2012 Fusion, Milan, and MKZ vehicles a new Battery to Starter Motor Solenoid Cable has been released as a lower level service part. It is no longer necessary to order the complete battery cable assembly (14B060). Use part number AE5Z-14A411-L (http://www.lakelandfordparts.com/product/AE5Z14A411L) 3.0L engine equipped vehicles and AE5Z-14A411-J (http://www.lakelandfordparts.com/product/AE5Z14A411j) 3.5L and 2.5L engine equipped vehicles. Refer to Workshop Manual section 414-01 for proper removal and replacement procedures.

APPLICABLE VEHICLES
2010 - 2012 CAR: 00170 FUSION
2010 - 2011 CAR: 00171 MILAN
2010 - 2012 CAR: 00179 MKZ
2010 - 2012 CAR: DE FUSION/MILAN/MKZ (ZEPHYR)
2010 - 2012 CAR: DE FUSION/MILAN/MKZ (ZEPHYR)
2010 - 2011 CAR: DE FUSION/MILAN/MKZ (ZEPHYR)

I take that back, here is another:


SSM 12055 - 2009-2013 Multiple Vehicle Lines - Battery Light Flickers - Stays On - Low Charg ing


Some 2009-2013 Multiple vehicle lines may exhibit low charging system voltage, f lickering battery indicator lamp, or battery indicator lamp on. This may be caus ed by engine vibration or improper probing of the 3 pin wiring harness connector at the generator. These conditions can cause a loose or spread terminal on the harness side of the connection. Service tip using the purple male flex probe fro m Rotunda Flex Probe Kit (NUD105-R025D), or a male terminal from box 3, drawer C -16 of the wire terminal repair kit. If there is no drag felt when pulling the f lex probe/terminal from the harness connector terminal, the connector can be rep aired with wiring pigtail kit WPT-118 (14S411), refer toWiring Diagram section 5 for wiring repair procedures.

APPLICABLE VEHICLES
2009 - 2013 CAR: 00071 MUSTANG 00117 TAURUS 00170 FUSION 00179 MKZ 00190 MKS
2009 CAR: 00082 SABLE
2009 - 2011 CAR: 00015 CROWN VICTORIA 00044 GRAND MARQUIS 00094 TOWN CAR 00122 FOCUS 00171 MILAN
2010 - 2013 TRUCK: 00194 MKT
2010 - 2012 TRUCK: 00153 TRANSIT CONNECT
2009 - 2011 TRUCK: 00081 RANGER 00163 MARINER
2009 - 2010 TRUCK: 00070 MOUNTAINEER 00110 EXPLORER 00134 EXPLORER 4DR
2009 - 2013 TRUCK: 00016 E-SERIES 00028 F-SERIES 00029 F-SERIES LD 00106 NAVIGATOR 00134 EXPLORER 4DR 00176 EDGE 00177 MKX 00189 FLEX 00198 EXPLORER 2011 00206 EXPLORER RUSSIA
2009 - 2012 TRUCK: 00130 ESCAPE
2009 - 2013 CAR: C7 FUSION C9 MKZ (CD533) DD TAURUS/SABLE DE FUSION/MILAN/MKZ (ZEPHYR) LE LINCOLN MKS-SWB/LWB PG FIVE HUNDRED/MONTEGO/TAURUS/SA PH TAURUS ZE MUSTANG (SN95) ZF MUSTANG (S197)
2009 CAR: DD TAURUS/SABLE PG FIVE HUNDRED/MONTEGO/TAURUS/SA
2009 - 2011 CAR: AK FOCUS AU FOCUS (CW170) - N.A. DE FUSION/MILAN/MKZ (ZEPHYR) DH C346 FOCUS FNA FB CROWN VIC FP GRAND MARQ (EN53/EN114) VC LINCOLN TOWN CAR
2010 - 2013 TRUCK: P4 MKT (LINCOLN C/O UTILITY)
2010 - 2012 TRUCK: C7 V227 TRANSIT CONNECT 8M TRANSIT CONNECT-N.A. MARKETING
2009 - 2011 TRUCK: K6 JAP RANGER-J97/U268 SERVICE M1 FORD ESCAPE / MAZDA TRIBUTE M7 ESCAPE/TRIBUTE/MARINER-LHD R3 RANGER/MAZDA B2000 R8 S. A. RANGER (PACHECO)
2009 - 2010 TRUCK: S1 EXPLORER SPORT TRAC UB EXPLORER UK EXPLORER SPORT TRAC U3 EXPLORER/MOUNTAINEER U5 EXPLORER/MOUNTAINEER U7 EXPLORER SPORT U9 U150 STRIPPED CHASSIS WF EXPLOR (EUROPE-U105/106)
2009 - 2013 TRUCK: B4 NAVIGATOR B5 NAVIGATOR (U228) E4 ECONOLINE FA P473 SUPER DUTY F5 F-SERIES UNDER 8500 GVW F6 F150/LINCOLN MARK LT F7 F-SERIES OVER 8500 GVW P3 FLEX (FORD C/O UTILITY) Q1 FORD EDGE/LINCOLN MKX UB EXPLORER U5 EXPLORER/MOUNTAINEER WJ EXPLORER RUSSIA Y3 F-STRIPPED CHASSIS(P131)
2009 - 2012 TRUCK: M1 FORD ESCAPE / MAZDA TRIBUTE M2 C520 NA (ESCAPE) M7 ESCAPE/TRIBUTE/MARINER-LHD

2013 Taurus Battery issue
 

I just replaced the battery in my 2013 Taurus, this makes it the 6th Battery in 4 years of owning this car brand new since August 2012. I have been repeatedly told that the batteries were bad on the shelf, and they supposedly cannot find an alternator or electrical problem.

Intermittent electrical problems can drive one up the wall.
Sometimes, what it takes is to prep the vehicle, hood open, driver's window down and preparation for voltage drop testing across the various fuses. It is a time consuming procedure , but time well spent. Some places even use infrared sensing to detect the fuse carrying unusual current. Patience and persistence help in situations like this.
The manufacturers usually will release the acceptable parasitic number and it is wise to attempt to get it so accurate comparisons can be made.

Any luck with this issue?

I've got a 2010 2.5l Fusion and I've been experiencing a parasitic drain whenever the weather gets cold (usually below -20, but last night happened at just below freezing).

It sounds like the OP's problem, only limited to cold weather. I've taken it to a ford store and another local garage and both measured acceptable draw on the battery. The problem with diagnosing this is the temperature variable, and mechanics do their work indoors.

I'm going to try putting a multimeter in series with the negative terminal on the battery and observe over night to see if and when the draw increases.

Hi Charliefox,
Something you maybe forgot,
When you remove the battery negative cable to connect the meter you also allow the conditions that may be contributing to the problem to "reset". What you might consider is to fabricate or purchase a knife type disconnect where you can maintain the continuity in the electrical system when inserting the meter into the system then remove the battery cable from the post so all current must go through the meter without allowing the electrical system (can bus) to reset.
Let us know what you find, thanks.

Thanks for the advice on using the knfe type disconnect, I'll see if I can purchase one or rig something up.

Would it also be feasible to connect the meter and simply leave it connected and thus completing the circuit, or is this impractical due to multimeter battery limitations?

Good point !
A lot will depend on the condition of the battery in the meter, how long you want it to function in the min/max mode and also how long it will take for the module to wake up and start draining the battery.
I suppose you could always use a meter that used the vehicle's battery for power in which case it should work until the voltage drops below the critical point. Unfortunately none of those will tell you how long it took to wake up the system.
One way to try would be to measure the voltage drop across each fuse without disconnecting anything at timed intervals and then hope you can pin down the fuse /circuit with the problem.
Another way could be to use a temp gun and scan the fuses at timed intervals (ie every hour or two) and see which fuse /circuit is pulling current, that fuse will be warmer than the rest.

battery dead after 2 days
 

HI. I have been reading all the replies to the issue of Ford Fusion 2010 battery dies if left unused for more than a day>. If someone knows how to fix this issue please let me know I cant deal with this and the cost is crippling

I don't know if anyone covered this point.

Could you tell us where the vehicle is parked and how far is the remote from the vehicle when parked?

The way the systems work is if the operator is close by or opening the door the modules are awakened to prepare for engine start etc.
That alone can prevent the modules from going into sleep mode which by the way takes around 45 minutes.
Are there any add on's on the vehicle?

If it was something simple or common the problem would have been fixed by this time.