Won't start after wreck - Engine components look fine
 

Hello,


I'm new to this forum, but was hoping some of you might have some idea where I could look next.


History:
- Rear ended a truck a week ago
- I've taken real good care of the car which is why I'm hoping to fix it.
- I only had liability so it's on me to get it repaired.
- I'm hoping to fix it myself since the reputable repair shops around here only use factory parts and those cost a fortune from what I've experienced.
- With the exception of the LH headlight, fender, airbox, bumper & cover, and radiator with support things are in tact and look fine.


What I've tried:
- Checked the inertia switch, but no luck.
- Car seems to be getting fuel as it goes to start, but then stumbles and shuts off.
- I bought a OBDII reader this morning and there are no CEL's even though the CEL light flashes after the engine stumbles and shuts off about 5 times.
- Video showing the engine attempting to start is here

Outside car - YouTube

- Video inside the car while trying to start is here

Inside car - YouTube

- The diagnostic report from my Innova OBDII reader is shown in the images below.


https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8XX...it?usp=sharing


https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8XX...it?usp=sharing


https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8XX...it?usp=sharing


https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8XX...it?usp=sharing


Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks,
fsn07

Does your vehicle have a security system on it?
The symptoms seem to be PATS related. Are you using a different ign key? If not, try the other one!

Hmm I do notice the security light on the left hand side flashing, but I think it always did that. We have 3 keys for this car. I tried all of them and the same result. Yes it does have the basic security system.

One thing I notice and you can hear it in the video is that the 1st or 2nd time after I re-hook up the negative battery terminal there's 5 or so clicks after it shuts off. After the 1st or 2nd time it shuts off it doesn't do that clicking noise anymore after it shuts off.

Thanks for the response. Isn't PATS a dealer-only reset?

Depending which is closer or more convenient, a local locksmith may have the scan tool to check your PATS. Since it wasn't working correctly in the past, you may have to have a dealership service dept get into it. Some locksmiths have the equip and do handle these problems.

My PATS has always worked, then something got messed up in the accident. I spoke with the dealer and he said PATS would keep the car from even turning over and getting up to ~1k rpm's like mine is. Not sure if he's right or not.

Hmmm anyone else have any other leads/ideas?

I believe your dealer is correct. For your model, as long as the starter is operational it would eliminate the PATS.
The other symptoms appear like you are not getting fuel to the injectors.
When you first turn the key on can you hear the fuel pump run for the usual 1-2 seconds?
I would recheck the inertia switch, are you sure it is staying reset? Have you confirmed that power is going in and out of the inertia switch?
Lastly , the clicking you hear could be a circuit breaker opening due to a wire that may be pinched somewhere.

Fuel pump is coming on like normal. You should be able to hear it in the video's.

I just double-checked the inertia switch and it wasn't tripped. I even held it down while attempting to start since I saw something about that online somewhere, but no luck.

I'm not sure about the clicking. It is on the drivers side, and only the first crank or so after I replug in the neg battery terminal. I just did it again and the clicking is def coming from the area highlighted in the attached picture. *Note that's not my car, but I wasn't able to get a quick pic of my car at the time.*

At the times it dies and checked with a light or meter, do you have 12v at the inertia?

Check relays
 

Did you check your fuel pump relay??Did you jump out your inertia switch.Same thing happened to my motor home.

@dob111 I didn't try to bypass the inertia switch. Was your motor home in an accident as well, or did the inertia switch decide to go faulty? I didn't check my fuel relay either.

@Hayapower I didn't check +12v at the inertia. I always found working with a voltmeter intimidating. My main experience is with basic top end engine components and basic bolt ons.

I ended up towing my car to a local mechanic that's trustworthy so they can figure it out quicker than I. My buddy has let me borrow his extra car in the meantime so I can keep up with my 2 jobs and stop fiddling with the running issues. I'll report back what they say it is for future reference. They said it may be next Monday before I hear something more definite.