Rough idle,no power, sometimes doesn't start
 

Hello my name is Woody I have a 1994 Ford Ranger XLT 2. 3 l that is idling roughly it is also hard to start sometimes and I smell gas sometimes have changed the fuel pump have changed the pressure regulator switch have changed the fuel filter have changed the plugs the wires do not hear any vacuum leaks hissing of any sort when I come to a light as the Idol begins to idle down it slowly starts to begin to run rough and it gets rougher and rougher and less iPad on the gas a couple times it is a stick shift by the way to keep it running it does not stall out it just idles roughly when I take off from a light it has no power whatsoever and you can tell that it's burning extremely rich by the smell of the PM's questions and suggestions please

WElcome to the site Woody..

Any CEL?

No it does not have any codes check engine light is not on

Sure its not drinking fuel through the fuel regulator vacuum hose? So,, the engine clears out and runs good a cruise speeds?

Hayspower
 

Specifically the fuel pressure regulator hose.
If the reg diagram leaks, it will draw fuel into the intake. With the engine idling, and you remove the reg hose, is there a change in idle speed?
Whats the engine temp? If low on the gauge, or a failing ECT, the engine will remain in open loop, rich. But generally won’t make for a rough idle/stall. If the engine runs excessive rich, the 02s should set code from not ranging, or too slow.
Most of the other engine management components like MAF, EGR, TPS, IAC, ETC, can certainly cause unstable idle, but normally with set codes if their parameters exceed or are not met/expected..
EGR, can hang/solenoid apply unregulated flow and cause idle issues, same with IAC. Dirty MAF can cause incorrect intake flow values affecting a correct fuel/air ratio.. Vacuum leaks too, and if any of these type issues exists, the PCM will try and correct or adjust the air/furl mixture by adding more fuel, or less. But, most often with a CEL.

So,, what would cause overfueling without setting codes,, the key may be how long the rich condition exists to set the DTC’s..
I’d straight off check the fuel reg hose for raw fuel, vacuum leaks (but you seemed to have covered that), EGR ops, clean the MAF, IAC (does the idle change if unplugged), make sure the engine is up to normal operating temp, Could be possible injector issues, but would probably notice drivablity issues off idle..

There is no refusal in the vacuum lines off of the regulator switch but when I do disconnect the pressure regulator switch the idle does change a little bit at idles up a little bit I changed that out it seemed to have fixed that problem but it's still running really really rich cleaned out the MAF cleaned out the idle air control I did find out that this truck is from California it has an extra sensor on it called an EGR sensor depression switch have you ever heard of that apparently it controls the EGR

When you pulled the vacuum line off the regulator, fuel pressure will go up in a working system, thus richening the mixture further. Make sure you have good vacuum to that regulator for it to function properly.. The EGR hanging open will lean out the mix so I wouldn't go there. I would start by checking your fuel pressure. It should be 30-45 psi and hold for a long time after shutdown. If it bleeds down fast, could be drippy injector(s). I would also pull your IAC unit to clean the pintle and the bore in your throttle body which it resides. I would try diagnosing versus changing out parts because most of the time, you will be wasting money.

Question when my truck is idling if I pulled the vacuum off of the EGR should I have a vacuum at idle

NO ! none