02 Taurus steer fluid leak w/ pics
 

Have an '02 Taurus SES 6 cyl that's got a steering fluid leak that I think I've been able to identify. Here's the two pics...

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...c926f147ef.jpg

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...8379f4b4fb.jpg

Seems to me the leak is coming from between the large nut and the fluid reservoir. I'm guessing I need to replace the black grommet?/washer you can see between the nut and the reservoir.

So my questions are...

1) What do I actually need to replace? The black grommet? And what is it properly called?

2) How do I go about backing those nuts out? Loosen the smaller one first that's closest to the line, then get the large one out? Seems like that large nut is too close to the reservoir body to get a socket around it. Guess I'd have to use some channel locks or vice grips.

and

3) Considering I'm possibly introducing air into the system, are there any special steps I should take to get it burped once everything is back together and the reservoir is filled?


Thanks from both me and Mom as this is her car.

I've been told I have to vacuum bleed the system if there is a muffler inline. The line pictured has an elongated bulb about a foot to the right of the picture that's about 5-6 in long.

Is this the muffler I've heard about?

And if so what's the procedure for vacuum bleeding using a hand pump?

A muffler on a power steering system? Never heard of or seen such an animal on a P/S system. However, there are mufflers on A/C systems which is what you are referring to in the picture.

Use a turkey baster and remove as much fluid as possible to get below the return line. You will need to remove the line with the small compressor nut first. You will also require a new Teflon O-Ring for the small nut. Go to Ford and get the right size. Then you can remove the large nut to see what you'll need from there to fix the leak. Looks like it's been leaking for quite some time. After you get it all back together, fill the P/S reservoir with fluid (ATF), then get the front wheels off the ground, unlock the ignition/steering and slowly turn the wheels left and right. This will push the fluid thru the system without pressure. By doing it this way, you will purge the system of pretty much any air that may be in it without frothing the fluid or needing to vacuum bleed the system. It's 00:30 in the morning, so let me know if any or all of this makes sense.

Yeah everything sounds good.

Only thing though is I've been given conflicting advice. One source says to give the wheel some turns before starting the engine, start the engine, then do a series of lock to lock turns to get the air out.

Another source tells me to not do any turns at all before starting the engine, but to crank the engine a bit w/o starting (w/ fuel pump fuse removed), check and fill fluid level, replace fuse, then start engine.

What's up w/ either starting or not starting the engine before doing the lock to lock sweeps?

The first two will basically do the same thing.

You should have very little air in the system to begin with based on where the return line is located. My procedure is the easiest of the first two.

The third way will cause any air in the system to rapidly mix with the fluid causing it to foam and can make your P/S system whine and act erratically until all of the air bubbles are purged from the fluid.