Amount of PAG Oil to Add for Condenser and Drier Replacement 08 Taurus
 

I have an 08 Taurus SEL and all the refrigerant is gone in the A/C system due to a major leak in the condenser (found using UV dye). So I am going to replace the condenser and drier, but I am wondering how much PAG oil to add back in due to the removal/replacement of the condenser and drier. Per some searches, seems like the total amount of pag oil in the system is 7 oz. So I am just guessing that I might add 2 oz of pag oil back in during the replacement of these components. Anyone have any advice if this is a good amount, or maybe access to service manual that might indicate how much? Thanks!

You can drain the old oil out of each component and measure to get an idea what you need to replace. Generally, add one ounce for the condenser and the amount drained out of the accumulator plus one ounce. That is according to my shop manuals. It may be specified with the documentation provided with each new component as for oil requirements..
Make sure you evacuate the system for a couple hours and verify the system holds its vacuum prior to adding your refridgerant.

Ok, I hope to get to the job in a couple of weeks when it finally warms up here in Wisconsin!!!! I purchased and received an OEM condenser(MOTORCRAFT YJ511) and OEM receiver/dryer(MOTORCRAFT YL209)
, from Rock Auto, and there is no documentation with those components. When I remove the receiver/dryer, I think I can drill a hole in bottom and measure anything that comes out. But I am thinking there is no way to really drain oil from the condenser, right? I am guessing there is not much in the dryer, if anything. So I am still thinking I am in that 2 oz range, or just a little more if there is some oil in the dryer.

Thanks for the reminder to make sure the system holds it vacuum for a couple of hours after running the vacuum pump for 30-45 minutes.

A lot depends on the ambient temp when you are evacuating a system. Also, the higher vacuum reading your pump will produce will boil off any moisture quicker.
Most manuals suggest an hour which has always been sufficient. If there is any drop in the vacuum reading in a half hour , you will see it on the gauge after you shut the vacuum pump off..
No need to wait hours to charge the system. If that was so , AC repairs would cost a lot more with time wasted.
An important step to always perform is to purge the lines from the supply to the manifold gauges before opening the valves to admit the refrigerant to the vehicle system..

We are not talking an automotive shop where time is money from the boss.. The average person has the time to do it right and not rush the job. Doing a thorough job is not wasting time and means doing it once. Any slight leaks may show up after an hour. FYI- a couple hours equals two for the uninformed.

I know one person who I wouldn't want working on my a/c system. Probably had a lot of repeat repairs because the refridgerant leaked out..

For whatever amount of PAG oil I determine/guess to put in (say 2 oz.), can I just pour that amount directly into the condenser before I install it? And if so, does it matter which line of the condenser I put it in (like the line that connects to drier or line that connects to compressor)?

As far as purging the air out of the supply line just prior to recharging, I guess my technique has been to just to press the shrader valve on the manifold of the supply line, basically like the ChrisFix video "How to Properly Recharge Your AC System" at the 9:15 point in the video. I have only used my manifold gauges a few times, and that has been my technique, but maybe there is a better one.