Help needed with a 95
 

OK here is what's going on,

Car has been great for years on end, Still runs & shifts great untill it acts up.
(randomly)

First notice it will shift up and down at will & search for gears, Converter locks in and out & motor runs bad with very little power.

First thoughts was speed sensor or trans issue so I checked for codes.
with exception on the O2 sensor I am getting codes for every sensor in the car.
Also coil & P/N switch.

Replaced the air intake & coolant sensors then coil. cleared codes ran it 2 days and it all came back. (including codes for the new sensors that were replaced)

So one mentioned the input sensor could be to blame as if the pcm didn't know what the motor was doing or how fast/slow it was running it would mess everything else up. (just replaced that too)

Cleared codes and I'm back to square one.

Removed and cleaned every ground I could find under the hood and the strap to engine, Also ran another ground from engine to battery. (results are the same) Alternator tested and ok, battery load tested and ok.

Odd codes I get are
no power or low voltage to pin #5 at pcm (which was the input speed sensor & just replaced)

other odd codes, intermittent (something or other) with P/N switch
and open circuit at P/N switch ...

Any ideas?
Could the Park/Neutral switch cause this or would I just be chasing another gremlin?

Any & all help would be greatly appreciated ...................................... Sinc. Joe


want to ad,
This will only happen after the engine is at FOT (full operating temp)
Makes a little bit of sense as I'll guess it's when it comes out of "open loop"
&
the speedometer works at all speeds and the ABS light is not on................ Thanks again

The possibility of a defective trans range switch (formally park neutral switch) is good.
The resistors inside the switch tell the trans system what range to be in and if the signals are incorrect the trans and system hunt, go into wrong gears, some not at all, all kinds of crazy problems. The resistance readings are very important and the slightest poor connection can give all kinds of problems. Suggest replacing the switch.

Hank is there anyway to test that switch? (ohms, voltmeter)
I just hate the thought of throwing more money and the problem comes back.

same
 

Well I replaced the P/N switch and it's still the same, Does anyone have any ideas at all? I would really appreciate any and all help. .. Thanks Joe

I should have read your original post more carefully.
When we get a mess of codes it usually indicates a voltage loss somewhere.
I believe you checked ALL the ground connections, what about the positive side connections right from the battery through the fuse box and fuse connections?

Hi Hank
 

ok
Nope I didn't check the + wires but I'll make that the next thing.

Can't remember if I said it but also got a code says alt. is over charging, Took that and had it tested 3 times and it checked out good.

I tell ya Hank this is eating away at me, It's a good running car & up untill this it has been extremely dependable.

One reason the alt will overcharge is a poor connection in the supply system since the regulator is sensing a lower voltage and telling the alt to increase the charge rate to bring the system up to 14 volts.

Hi Hank
 

Got started on the other wires today
made it from battery to power dist. box. so far
Wires were a bit cruded, Wire brush on the dremel and cleaned them all.
(still no luck) will continue on from there..

Hello again Hank,
Some more questions for you,

Could the pcm cause this?
(My train of thought if the pcm is or going bad car wouldn't start or stall out)

Is there a relay for the pcm?

What supplies power to the pcm?

I'm just thinking were it is intermittent maybe not a wire issue but something faulty and shutting down when it gets hot. (what do you think?)

Very grateful for all your help, ..........Joe

What are the latest codes you received?

OK codes are the same,
With exception of the O2 I'm getting a code for every sensor.
Odd ones are the P/N switch (open circuit) and (intermittent something I forgot)

Alt. over charging

and forgot the number but it was no power to pin #5 at the pcm.
I got a wiring diagram and found power to pin #5 was supplied from the turbine shaft sensor (input) changed it and still the same.

Hank Maybe I'm looking in the wrong place?

When the code said no power to pin #5 at the pcm I was thinking computer.
(behind the glove box)

For the heck of it I checked autozone an they call the pcm the relay box atop the rad. (power train control module)

So exactly which one is the pcm?

Joe,
Please provide some important info since 1995 was a transitional year.
Some vehicles had TFI IV ignition and some had TFI V ignition systems.
We need the engine size, also the code numbers you got from Autozone if possible.
Usually the item you questioned located on the radiator under the cover is called an "IRCM - Integrated Relay Control Module".
The PCM usually is located behind the glove box and connected under the hood at the firewall. This is not set in stone because the modules are located all over the place depending on what engine is in the car.
By the way , if your car does have an IRCM , inside that module is the power relay for the computer. We have to take the things one at a time until we get the info straight so we know where we're going.

Hi again Hank

I'll pull the codes again tomorrow (I'm doing that not autozone)

No idea on the ignitions, How do I tell the diff. between them?

Hi Hank, sorry didn't get back sooner

Had a tree come down on my house during Irene and not more then 2 days ago my daughters place got flooded out. The weather here has been extreme to say the least. It will be awhile before I can get the codes, Pulled something in my back tending to everything. I did however get a chance to drive the car on the interstate and it was an experience to say the least. The cruise was set at 65 and all was good for 20 miles or so then the car on it's own climbed to 75 (I could here something humming or whining) under the hood, Then the cruise shut itself off car slowed a bit and then downshifted by itself. The next thing was everything else followed. Trq. converter locking in and out random searching for gears and the engine starting running poor (could also smell fuel so I know it wasn't firing right)

The last thing I got to do was change the CCRM and cleaned all the connections to it.
Still to no avail.....

If your vehicle has TFI IV ign usually no crank sensor, TFIV usually has a crank sensor and o2 sensors after the converters.
Please provide engine size as shown on underhood label.

OK
 

Alright Hank here we go,
went out last night found some more nasty looking wires. (large plug inner fender just to the right of the air box 10mm bolt in center)
got that taken care of, Cleared the codes & went for a drive.
I got about 40 miles & had to turn back.
The codes I now get (most of them are now gone)
56
55
65
& then I got 111 twice..

I've got the ford obd1 list but I can't make heads or tails out of 65
& why would it give me 111 (system ok) if I'm getting codes?
not to mention it gave it twice..

Let me know what you think here, I'm at a loss and once again appreciate any and all help.

Engine 3.0 (u code pushrod engine)
and only 1 O2 and that's an easy one to get too.
(right out front facing the rad.)

Joe,
I'm pretty sure your vehicle has the TFI IV ign syst.
The puzzling part is how you are getting 2 digit codes with a 3 digit pass code.
I'm curious about that 10 mm bolt and the connector. Could you have been referring to the computer plug?
Also from what I was able to find , so far, those codes don't apply to your vehicle.
The KOEO codes are items that are presently not functioning unless, they are history codes. If so and the vehicle runs OK , clear them and see if they come back.

Hi
 

Hank it's a 95 = OBD1 not OBD2, OBD1 basic codes are 2 digits.
Also the KOKE doesn't work on this, A jumper wire and a test light.

There was no pause and the last of the codes so I had to piece them together.
Ford OBD1 expanded has some 3 digit codes which code mean my last codes might have been,
651
11
111
Meaning it didn't repeat the 111 twice.

OK
 

Hank here's the list I been using (unsure if this site will block the url?)

troublecodes.net/Ford/

Would be great if someone could shed some light on this.
Ford used 3 digit codes for OBD1?

If so why do I have 2 digit #'s on this list?

So if we're using 3 digit codes then it would be,
565 565 111 111 ? Correct?

Is it normal for the system to repeat the numbers?
I know on my Cougar it does but that's OBD2
It will give the # straight then repeat it with a P (for pending)

I'm puzzled now more then you are Hank, Let me know what you think...

Thanks again, sinc. Joe

** going to find a place to upload some pics I took of the plug for you Hank, & I'll guess it runs to the pc as all the wire colors matched the wiring diagram colors to the pcm **

Yes , the older OBD I vehicles gave 2 digit codes. The later years provided 3 digit codes.
I think you are missing some of the procedure that explains what is happening when the codes are started. There are a few blinks to tell different things before it starts giving codes. Once it starts with the codes it goes through them once and you have to be alert to copy them fast. If you miss some , you need to turn the ignition off and start again.
I really suggest you invest in a code reader, it will make the process so much simpler and easier to see the codes. You don't need an expensive one , just one that will give you the numbers
I believe you have a 1995 with a 3.0L engine (U) which I believe is a regular 3 litre 2 valve engine and not a SHO engine. Is this correct?

Yes
 

It's the regular 2 valve push rod motor.
I have a scanner but it's OBD2 I couldn't find anyone with OBD1 scanners.

I'll do some more searching. (I don't do ebay)