no crank, theft light flashing
 

2006 ford Taurus SE 3.0L


temp dropped to -27*C. car would not crank. Do not hear the starter solenoid click.


battery open circuit voltage was 12.0 volts so its dead and probably frozen solid. Could not jump it. installed different battery and now I notice the theft light flashing rapidly (may have been flashing initially; not sure) and still will not crank.


can a dead battery set off the pats system?


I'm thinking clear the codes and try to start it.


Any comments?

Low battery voltage will prevent the PCM from working correctly. The PAT system's functionality is contained in the PCM.
If you haven't been able to get it going you might try the usual,
1. the second key
2. the key alone with no other keys next to it that may also be coded
3.. Try clearing the codes or at least post them here and we may be able to suggest something . Let us know how you make out when you're done, Thanks.

thanks hanky.


I'm having it towed to where I work. They have a full function scan tool I can use to retrieve the codes.


I will try your suggestions and post back.

it may have to relearn the codes on the keys and yes a dead battery can and usually does cause the computer to reset itself. just because you have the voltage don't mean you have the amps to run all the systems. that did happen to me a couple of months back.

went out and dealt with the car today...AMA can't tow it for 72hrs due to the number of calls they are getting.


but in a brand new battery. tried to start it to before clearing codes just to see if it would start; nope.


3 dtc were set. One in the ecm for the I/m monitors not run. 2nd was in the instrument cluster U2023 loss of communication and one for low battery voltage. Cleared the instrument cluster code and the car started right up.


thanks for the help guys.

looks like I spoke to soon.


next morning the no crank re-occurred. No theft light and battery is good. I will have to pull the codes again. I'm expecting u2023. no more parking lot diag. It going into the shop where I work.


put the original 7year old battery on three different battery testers.
-the $2000 gr8 conductance tester charged the battery for 90 minutes then failed it. However, the test number results looked good


-the $400 midtronics conductance tester passed it


-the "old timer" carbon pile load tester passed it

At this point I don't know if this is the vehicle's problem.
It does sound like something is keeping the battery saver relay in the system energized and pulling the battery down.
A module that refuses to go to sleep will do this as will anything that causes the system to think you are going to start the vehicle shortly like when you open the doors etc.
With the tool you have available to you , if it is a Ford IDS, you can run a check on module health. If there is a module with a problem it should tell you which one.

the new battery has remained fully charged.


the only code present this time was B1208...EIC Switch-1 Assembly Circuit Short to Ground set in the instrument cluster. cleared it and the car started right up.


have had a quick look in the pinpoint tests...if all the wiring is ok, it will need a ip cluster or message center switch


If it comes to that; can I swap in a used cluster or switch? will a used cluster or switch need dealer programming?

tonight another no start. no codes this time. wiggled the connections at the underhood fuse block...car started....fun continues.

If the battery is fully charged and working fine then another possibility would be wire problems. The wire could be so loose or have some circuit match due to which car is starting and fun continues. So far as your cluster programming is concern I will recommend to visit following link for reading the codes.
I hope this will be useful. :)