Car dies slowly
 

Hello I have an issue that's been bugging me and can't seem to figure it out. My 94 Ford mustang gt died on me on the freeway. First my radio went out and then my dash went out. After a while it just completely went out. I figured it was the alternator and replaced it . It started fine after a jump and ran on idle ok. Drove it the next day and it died after a 10 min drive. I don't have too many tools available at the moment and would like an input and some help. Anything is appreciated

Hi Rico,
A few of the things that should be checked.
Battery and cable condition and state of charge (is it being charged properly)
Going back to your original post jumping the battery and it started ,I'd suspect that right from the beginning..

When the engine quits and you turn on the headlights then attempt to start the engine , what happens ? Lights stay bright. go dim, engine cranks over , but does not fire up? These little points all help with what to check next..

When I give it a jump it'll start fine but as soon as I disconnect the cables my headlights go dim .. it cranks and starts fine but won't stay running . Without the jump start I can't start it since the battery doesn't have sufficient charge

Either of the following can be the possible cause,
Battery will not hold or accept charge,
Poor connections from alternator to battery,
Replacement alternator is defective,
Poor connections not allowing alt to charge.
Never hurts to check ALL the fuses, some have a fuse for the charging system.

My mustang doesnt seem to have a fuse blown but I read something about a fusible link. Not too sure how to determine that bad or replace . Or even what it looks like

Usually,,,,,,,,,,,,,there is a battery cable that goes from the battery positive (+) post to a relay terminal on the fender well . That terminal has battery power all the time.
The heavy gauge wire coming off the alternator should go to that terminal so it can charge the battery when the engine is running. It may have a fusible link about 4-6 inches from the end of the wire attached to that terminal To confirm if it has separated internally, just pull on it slightly , if it is open it will be a little strechy. There are a few different size fusible links and the size is usually determined by the color. I'm not sure if this is the problem, but if it is , now you know what to do.

What would be the easiest way to determine something sucking up the charge faster than my alternator can put out ? I replaced the alternator and battery . Battery was @2v so I replaced it but the issue still continues ... after the battery replacement it was good for like 30 min and now the issue came back

To have a better idea of just what is going on, You could connect a voltmeter to the battery and let us know what the voltage reading is engine not running and the voltage reading when the engine is running at a fast idle. The readings not running should be approx 12.4 volts or higher.
Running, at least 13.5 volts or higher

If the not running reading is below 12 volts there are either poor connections or something is pulling the voltage down or the battery is no good.
If you can provide those readings we might be able to suggest what to do next.
A QUICK TIP, if you get any large spark when removing and/ or reconnecting the battery negative terminal something is on or rhere is a short circuit somewhere.