I have very limited information to provide you with but I need to know what to look for…

My uncle called and said my cousin’s "small Ford SUV" would not go into gear. No forward or reverse. He said that “some guy” cleared the engine codes and it has not worked sense. He was unable to tell me the make or model only that it is not very old and no one knows what the codes were.

I am reluctant to say that “some guy” did damage to the transmission at this point but I am going to them in the morning to see what I can find.
Are there any key elements to look for?

 

Information update. The vehicle in question is a 98-ford explorer, automatic, four-wheel drive.

 

Ah, the old 4/5R44/55E transmission. It was known as the A4LD (automatic, 4 speed, Light Duty) in previous years. They are both the same transmission, just with some different window dressing in the valve body. The internals are identical for many, many years. It was the second transmission I ever overhauled, all those years ago.
It is impossible for a code clearing to cause a no-movement concern. These transmissions are hydrualically routed to always give second and reverse, with absoluetly no electrical connections at all. That means that even if you disconnected the bulkhead connector, you could at least move it, at least if the internals were all there and doing something.
And that's the problem with this specific transmission. Something is really wrong in the transmission. I'd start by doing a line pressure check; it should be between about 75 to 120 psi in drive, and should have no problem reaching over 200 psi in reverse. If it's ok, then most likely something in the trans is just broken. These had well known problems with the forward clutch burning up (caused by the cushion ring on the piston that is rubber and gets hard or shrinks, which increases clutch pack clearance, accelerating wear/slippage). That explains why there would be no forward, but no reverse. The other thing these used to do is break the overdrive one-way clutch, which is locked in every gear except 4th (or 5th). Whatever it is, it's time to pull the box and shake it and see what's broken. You'll find something for sure.
I call this a "4 and a half speed" transmission. The 5th gear that these provide is really just a 'normal' 4 speed 4th gear, but depending on throttle angle (more then 1/2), it will throw in the extra gear of 2nd, which really is just an overdriven first gear. It's cheap, totally dependant on PCM programming, and not really a factor if you're not getting into the gas.
These were a really trouble-free box, and lasted quite a while. However, with a lot of miles, they wear, like anything. It should be an easy fix.
If it's a 5.0L, it'll be the AODE/4R70W, and just about the same goes for it. You'll find something.

 

Thank you for the response; I will update you as soon as I have tested the pressure. I am hopeful I can figure it out LOL. I do engines not transmissions. I know just enough about them to know to stay out

 

Here is what I found when I checked the truck.

Fluid level is fine but burnt.
I disconnected the linkage and shifted it by hand, slight grinding going into any gear, heavy grinding trying to go into park (had to turn engine off to put in park), no gear engages, cannot push in park.
Pressure is 100+ in all forward gears and just over 200 in reverse.
Looking through starter hole there are no apparent cracks or warping of the flywheel.
No leaks or cracks in the casing yet there in no movement.

The grinding is coming from the forward area of the transmission, I know sound travels but it is leading me to believe maybe damage to stator support or stripped input shaft.

I am mechanically inclined enough to come to your house and put together an “engine” you took apart a year ago, yet I have only rebuilt 3 transmissions (AX4S, 41TE, A670) in my life and they were all mine. Should I run from this or help my cousin out? I am willing to do the work (she is unemployed) if those with experience with this trans tell me I’m not taking on a major headache.

Thank you for any and all input.




P.S. Knowing my cousin, I believe she shifted from reverse to drive while moving and likely stomped on the gas afterward.

 

I am mechanically inclined enough to come to your house and put together an “engine” you took apart a year ago, yet I have only rebuilt 3 transmissions (AX4S, 41TE, A670) in my life and they were all mine. Should I run from this or help my cousin out? I am willing to do the work (she is unemployed) if those with experience with this trans tell me I’m not taking on a major headache.

Ok, so, I'm dealing with a player. This is good. If you've gotten together a AX4S and it even moved, then this transmission is a total, unmitagated, piece of cake. Incidentally, the AXODE/AX4S was the first tranmission that I ever overhauled, a really, really long time ago now.
From what you're saying, the pressures are fine. You have no movement yet a noise comes from the front of the trans, and you mentioned grinding. Remember what I said about the O/D one way clutch breaking? I'd bet my next paycheck that when you take this apart, you'll find the o/d one way is either broken, or its ground up the sun gear, planet and ring gears in the o/d section. Remember I said that you needed this one clutch to hold in every gear but o/d? That's how this all goes together, and a little logic goes a long way in diagnosing these things.
If you're in the mood, this trans comes apart in about 10 minuets, and a 5 gal. bucket from a local hardware store with a hole cut in the bottom and a bench to lean it against is all that's needed for a perfect stand.
If you get it apart, look for metal (common), and see what's ground up. If its really chewed up, you might get another trans that is rebuildable, and use your hydraulics (pump, valve body) in a overhaul.
Also, these tranmission had a habit of wearing the thrust washers out over time. Look for this on the back of the rear planetary and ring gear, at the back of the trans.
It's really easey to do, and with just a little care, I'm sure you can do it with a good manual. DO NOT be afraid of this. That's the difference between being good, and being a hack (like me).

 

Thank you for the reply and the confidence.

I did machine work in the Army and my commanding officer drilled one thing into my head that keeps me going in almost everything I do. “Don’t be afraid of what you’re doing, but respect what you’re working on and you will do it right every time.” Did the AXODE ride? Oh yes, but it took me 2 days to build and many times rereading the manual LOL, not looking forward to a repeat of that. I will take the job on, I feel compelled to find out what makes it tick anyway lol

 

thank you everyone, for the time you have taken to read and/or reply

 

Well Richard, at least we know it'll get fixed right. I've learned very much more from my mistakes then triumphs. It was the mistakes that taught me what to look out for.
Looking on the brightside, if you master this, I'll send all my 4R70W work to you. This is a classic 'overdrive front, and the other 3 speed in the rear' transmission, and the concept kept us in 4 speed boxes for 30 years or so now.
And one more thing. If you keep working on these, then there's something you should know: the six speeds are right around the corner now that the eight speeds are going to be built.
But, there is a silver lining: the six speeds are acutally really simple, and if you understand planetary theory, a snap to fix.
One last thought. Every once in a while while rebuilding test, they wind up with a 'slide-bump' shift going (usually, but not limited to) 2nd gear (when the intermediate band applies). This annoying, and can be detremential to the trans over a long period. If you had any shift problems before you overhaul it, you might think about a shift kit (any mild one for the pressure regulation is all that trans ever needed).
Let us know how it's going. I'd like to hear about it.

 

Pulled the transmission apart this weekend and found no damage inside other than a little wear on the tabs of the overdrive retainer. I do not believe replacement will be necessary but going to anyway. I found nothing to give cause for no movement, grinding or inability to place in park while engine running. Unless the thrust washer was so bad that the input shaft jumped out, but no wear on the teeth of either end of the shaft. I am open for suggestions.