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Temporary fix F150 rear end, will it work?

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Old 02-24-2012, 03:29 PM
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Default Temporary fix F150 rear end, will it work?

I am basically looking for an experienced opinion here. My neighbor’s rear end went out in his ford F150. I told him I would look at it; he is disabled so money is a big issue for him.
The rear end comes to me with a worn out inner pinion bearing and seal. I open it up and find a little grooving on the pinion gears and they are as shinny as a new mirror. I know he needs a new ring and pinion but there is no way he can swing it atm.
With the new bearing installed, there is an .083 space before the pinion seats properly in the ring and a .021 backlash on the ring.
Will this work? How long?
Remove the right side carrier spacer and have it machined down .080 and a .080 spacer made to add to the left side, moving the ring closer to the pinion. Then have a .010 spacer made and put it between the inner bearing and the pinion to move the pinion toward the ring.
I know there are ring spacers out there but I am not a big fan of them, would rather move the carrier over altogether.
Thanks for looking.
 
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Old 02-25-2012, 12:28 PM
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Done... and if you are interested, it will buy him 30k to 40k more miles to get a ring and pinion set. A little noisy but going up to a 140 gear oil should cover that that up for a while.

can someone please tell me how to close a thread. I have tried to edit the first post title and no change (on another post)
 
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Old 02-25-2012, 05:25 PM
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The threads are closed by moderators.
 
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Old 02-25-2012, 05:54 PM
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You know, on my personal cars (or someone that's really close), I've just put bearings in for years and the rear end will last for quite a while. Yes, it may be nosiey (and a little clunky, espically when shifting gears), but they just go and go; so don't be afraid of it.
 
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Old 02-25-2012, 07:34 PM
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LOL. Thanks greasemark, if it were my truck I would just fill her up with a bucket of NLGI 00 and be done with it. But someone else's stuff I try my darnedest to do OEM.
 
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Old 02-26-2012, 06:48 AM
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Oh, I agree; I HAVE to fix it to OEM when in the shop. However, I live in the real world, and if you're dealing with a well-used car and ask most people if they can live with a little noise for $400 or no-noise for $1000, I think we both know what the answer would be.
 
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Old 02-26-2012, 10:53 AM
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Sure!!! , and that's when they tell you " I really don't like to drive with the radio that loud"! Hi guys!
 
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Old 02-26-2012, 09:48 PM
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That's what I would tell customers who owned diesel engines then complain the engine is loud.
But, that IS why God created radios, I believe.
 
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Old 02-26-2012, 09:53 PM
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LOL, welcome to the shade-tree room hanky, from your postings I don’t think you will enjoy yourself here (other than the shaking head laugh you may get from some of the short cuts we have done). As for my own stuff, ROFL, you would not believe the things I have done to my hunting truck to keep it rolling.
Try making sway bar bushings from the sidewall of an old tire with a skill saw LOL. Better yet, one of my motor mounts is a C-clamp that I welded in place. When you need to get it done in the woods, you come up with some out there ideas. But I would NEVER suggest it to anyone. Anyway, nice of you to pop in, it is an honor.
 
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Old 02-27-2012, 09:14 PM
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And since this is dump on Hanky day, I'm sure he'd remember the old Chevys that used braided wire wrapped around the upper control arms of some of their cars from back in the '70's. That was a factory soloution that was used to keep the engines in the cars due to really bad motor mounts.
The creators have tried everything before us. So I don't feel so bad when things get fixed with a sortcut that won't matter when it doesn't have to be new. Just usable.
 


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